3.) Pooh Corner 10b First pitch is a perfect 5.9 hand crack to rap chains/anchors about 50 feet above. Second pitch (start of second pitch is shown in photo below) is intimidating, overhanging off width (probably 10a,b) that has eaten many a climber. This is arm bar, chicken wing city and strenuous at the grade. Rent an antigravity machine for this one. Belay on gear. Scramble off left. See the shot below. (FFA: Cairnes and Walker, ’77: Also claimed by Schenck and Issacs)
4.) Howling 11a At the top of a small gully just right of Pooh you’ll find a finger crack. See the shot above. (FFA: Scarpelli, Callahan and Strand, ’83)
5.) Black Starr Chimney 6 Interesting adventure inside a deep, dark recess. First this way and then that, exit over the outside of the large chockstone and belay on gear. (FFA: Kopischka, early 80’s)
6.) Serpentine 9+ Just 8 feet right of ‘Black Starr’ is a left facing dihedral. Climb it until it breaks over and belay. PITCH 2 (aka Robert’s Rectification) continues up a slightly right arching crack line with off width and fists. (FFA: Kopischka, early 80’s)
7.) Hesitation 8 PITCH 1: Just a few feet right of the start of Serpentine, find an open slot. Squirm up to the Serpentine belay. PITCH 2: Start # 5 but go up the ramp on the right and belay at the dihedral corner. PITCH 3: Go up the dihedral and belay on gear. (FFA: Kopischka, early ’80’s)
8.) Rag – Tag 8+ An alternate pitch for Hesitation. Starts several feet right of the first belay of Hesitation, hand crack finishes below a big/giant chockstone.
9.) Vacillation Exit 9+ A continuation of Rag-Tag. Take the right side of the giant chockstone, continuing on the crack in the right facing dihedral past an obvious bulge. (FFA: Kelman and Brink, early 80’s)
10.) Klink 10a Neat climb. Starts about 30 feet down from Serpentine and Hesitation along the NW facing wall. A nice crack line (actually a shallow double dihedral) leads up to a well defined horizontal dike 40 feet off the deck, BUT you have to surmount an awkward bulging flake to get there. The belay is on a recently placed anchor set (* used to be a shakey belay on big cams in a horizontal dike). PITCH 2 heads up and left, briefly joining K.P. but take the hand to finger crack angling up and right (could be 10b). There are usually slings at the end of the crack line, but not guaranteed. Either rap from here or continue up the blank slab and walk off left. The Glenda Rap can also be reached from here. See the shot below. (FFA: Brink and Kelman, early 80’s)
11.) K.P. 9- Start up some easy flakes to reach the horizontal dike and contort your way up the crack of varying width to the top. Belay on gear. See shot above. (FFA: Kopischka and Pousch, early 80’s)
12.) Maiden 7 Downhill and around an obvious corner from #10. A great jammin’ handcrack leads up to the same shelf that Klink terminates on. Belay behind a large boulder to your right or on a new set of anchors just above the dike. (FFA; ?)
13.) Matron 8 A prominent crack is formed between the big boulder and the main rock just right of Maiden. Is it really worth it?? (FFA: ?)
14.) Like Fun 6 Climb up underneath a huge detached flake and out its left side. Continue up to a belay about 30 ‘ above. (FFA: Sublett and Miller, ’74)
15.) More Fun 6 Go up and over a block roof above the start of # 13, continuing to the same belay. (FFA: ?)
16.) Cosmic Debris 8+ Don’t become a galactic accident and protect this well. Located directly above the ‘access gulley’. Its a cool climb, but use your head. (FFA: ?)
17.) Labyrinth 9 One of the most unique climbs at Vedauwoo, an inside double dihedral that could have been called “will I really fit?” Answer, probably. P1: Accomplish the tricky start with your full rack, it’s always great (shown in photo immediately below). Squiggle your way up, not passing up any pro until you find the light at the exit. P2: Unless you want rope drag, you’ll think about moving the belay back near the start of the second pitch in the wide flaring corner. Climb the corner to an exposed move (crux) near the top. Photo: Dave Sabetti from Rhode Island has made the starting moves on Pitch 1. (FFA: Ferguson, Garson and Schenck, late sixties: Also FA claimed earlier by Walt Sticker and friends, c 1950)
18.) Connecticut Yankee 10c * Seen just right of Labyrinth in above photo, also shown on Topo of Reynolds Right. Very interesting, thought provoking and sustained cracks continue up and through a squeeze. Yes, it’s worth it…. fine climb. (FFA: ?)
DESCENTS: Use Glenda’s Chimney rap station (shown in orange / slightly right and down from the top of # 17) for the last 5 climbs, and others if you can get there (it is possible). Otherwise, walk/scramble off to the N / left side of the formation.
For More Information see the rest of Vedauwoo.org
or send an email at 'Contact Us'