Land of the Earth-born Spirit


Where is it?

Just past the north side of Holy Saturday along the Turtle Rock Trail, a faint trail leads northeast uphill into this cool little climbing sanctuary.


The south facing wall…

1.) Who The Devil Is Charlie Creese? 10a An inconspicuous, short hand crack. Piana, ’84.

2.) Walking Up To Zion 10c Starts in a left facing dihedral corner. A great finger and hand crack with an overhanging finish. DeMartino and Kelman, ’96.

3.) Wild Thing 10b Starts in a left facing dihedral, goes thru three small roofs and then gets wider. Burge and Pampe, late seventies. See the photo.

4.) K2 Route 7 Typical Vedauwoo off-width and chimney bypassing two roofs. This is the spacious off-width/chimney to the immediate right/east

of another obvious crack line (with a roof) in the face that apparently hasn’t been climbed yet. Kelman and Kovats, ’95.

5.) Japan Club 10d More challenging than it looks, just try it. Tricky right off the ground and sustained steepness. Piana and Ilgner, ’83.

DESCENTS: Walking/scrambling off ledges to the right/east.

The north facing wall…

1.) London Calling 11d Can you answer the call? Never sees the sun, so go here on a warm day when you’re feeling hot. Belay on gear. Descent: downclimb/wo. Skinner and Piana, ’83.

2.) Nasty Crack 12a It’s not as nasty as it looks, its just hard as hell and overhangs significantly into a real pump fest. New rap chains put in about ’95. Suzuki, ’84.


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