CITADEL ROCK

THE SOUTHWEST MAIN EXPOSURE ( * NW FACE IS FOUND BELOW)
THIS IS A great place to be, sunny most of the day, with moderate to fairly hard routes.
1.) Castles in the Sand 11d Thin, bolted line on the NW face described below.

2.) The Man Who Would Be King 11c Find a large, wide gash near the NW end of the face and climb the crack on the left side of this feature, ending up a dihedral corner to the top. (FFA: Scarpelli, Jackson and Swienefus, 2000)

3.) Court Jester 10b Climb the crack on the right side of the large gash over a stout roof, angling right to the top. (FFA: Jackson, Scarpelli and Swienefus, 2000)

4.) Skerry Garcia 11c/d Find a thin seam leading to two thin parallel cracks ending in a hand crack to the top. Mostly fingers and small, scarry pro, bro. (FFA: Jackson and McGovern, 2000)

5.) Citadel Crack 10b Namesake route for the entire area, a great right leaning diagonal hand crack passing a large roof on the left, continuing in the dihedral corner past a smaller roof to the top. (FFA: ??)

6.) Creeps at the Crags 10a A few feet left of #7 find a fairly large, angular inset in the middle of the face and climb a hands and fingers crack line going over small roofs to the top. (FFA: ?)

7.) Heads of the Valley 10a/b ‘The prominent right-leaning dike’. Used to be sketchy pro but has more recently bolted. Start with a dicey bouldering move into the dike followed by delicate face climbing up the dike. It has an overhanging crux that you can overprotect with small wires. Take small pro along this one, even though there are bolts. (FFA: Cupps and Wilke, ’91)

S.) Stems and Weeds 8 Find a handcrack on the left side of the face that slants up and left, becoming a dihedral corner. (FFA: Hanft, 2000)

1.) Castles in the Sand 11b/c Very thin and testy face climb, yet a superb line. There are 3 strange bolts and a little thin pro will help build your confidence when beginning the improbable looking start. Supposedly done ground up, but it’s very doubtful. (FFA: Agee and Cupps, early 90’s)

?) Who Knows?? Hard 11 Someone has put in two bolts up a wandering line on the right side of the face. This gets very thin, balancey and deceptive, but the line is there, yet need another couple of bolts to adequately protect it. Also placement of a thin wire or two can be found. Proceed at your own risk. TR is recommended.