Land of the Earth-born Spirit

Vedauwoo: Nearly Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About The Area

INTRODUCTION

THIS SITE IS PRIMARILY INVOLVED WITH ROCK CLIMBING AT VEDAUWOO, “Land of the Earthborn Spirit.”

JUMP TO A MAP OF GREATER VEDAUWOO

At an altitude of 8,000 feet, Vedauwoo is a rather secluded rocky oasis in southeastern Wyoming, filled with dense pine forests and aspen groves. It is surrounded by a seemingly endless expanse of high plains and lies under a dome of intense cerulean blue sky. Views from the tops of the crags are stunning, and one can see from Wyoming’s ragged mountains clear down the Continental Divide to Long’s Peak, some 75 miles south in Colorado. A multitude of free-ranging animal species are commonly found here, including small mammals, antelope, moose, deer, cattle, climbers and an occasional black bear or cougar. Today, climbers and others come here from nearly everywhere to indulge themselves within a setting of alien rock formations and scenic valleys found only at Vedauwoo. See the MAP of Greater Vedauwoo for a quick orientation to the entire area. This is ‘high country’ and wind is ever present, whether just a light breeze prowling through the aspen groves or near hurricane force gales.
Storms of near bestial proportions are spawned in the SNOWY RANGE about 50 miles to the west and many times descend upon the valleys of Vedauwoo. Should you decide to visit, you might want to check the weather prior to coming, especially in the spring or late fall. There is a live cam at the Vedauwoo Exit as well as atmospheric sensors near Vedauwoo. There is another live cam south of Cheyenne (if you’re coming up from theFront Range). In fact, no matter what the conditions or season, come prepared for CHANGE (*check this out!!) – it can occur in an instant! So whatever you decide to do here, from aggressive sports like climbing, bouldering, biking or trail running, to more quiescent activities like attending the Vertical Dance Performance or hiking around the back country engaging the flora and fauna, the promise is one of a unique and unforgettable experience. There are more photos in the PHOTOGALLERY. Opening dates, road closures, etc. are found on the News page and on the U.S. Forest Service website.

. . . . . . . .THERE IS AWESOME CLIMBING HERE ! . . . . . . . .
This is Offwidth Country!

WHERE: Vedauwoo is located in southeastern Wyoming along Interstate I-80, about 30 miles west of Cheyenne and/or about 20 miles east of Laramie at Exit # 329.

WHEN: The climbing season stretches from about Mid-April thru Mid-October. Some push it past these times, but ‘windows of opportunity’ become much less frequent outside these limits. You might want to check out the News page for Gate Opening Dates, Pass Prices, etc.

YOU can check out GOOGLE MAPS for a cool satellite view of Greater Vedauwoo – explore around.

Here is a GENERAL ORIENTATION schematic.

*PLEASE NOTE: It is referred to many times within the site!

A = Central Vedauwoo, B = Reynold’s and Outback, C = Lower Blair
D = Upper Blair, 700, 720, etc. = USFS Road Designations
. . . . . GET IT ON!!
YOU MIGHT WANT TO LEARN ABOUT THE FASCINATING HISTORY OF THIS ALLURING PLACE, VISIT THE VEDAUWOO MUSEUM.
. . . . . REALLY? YES!

REMEMBER…. A ‘COWBOY SPIRIT’ PERVADES THIS PLACE. THIS LAND BREEDS ADVENTUROUS PEOPLE WHO SOMETIMES IGNORE POTENTIAL RISKS …. ‘BRUSHPOPPERS’. MANY ARE SLIGHTLY UNSTABLE, BUT READY FOR ANY CHALLENGE – WITH A RECKLESS PERSEVERANCE TO “HANG ON IN THE FACE OF ADVERSITY OR GET BUCKED OFF”.THIS IS BUT ONE OF MANY ELEMENTS THAT MAKE THIS PLACE SO UNIQUE. SO DIG IN YOUR SPURS AND GET READY FOR A RIDE!!

ORIENTATION MAPS of Pole Mountain and

the Greater Vedauwoo Area

The first map (the big picture) illustrates the entire Vedauwoo area as well as the Pole Mountain Area to the immediate north. The second map (….) shows Greater Vedauwoo in more detail. While Vedauwoo is the obvious focus here, both areas are intimately interlocked by a system of USFS roads (shown) and trails (Described in the hiking/biking section). Both areas are bounded on the west by I-80, on the East by Happy Jack Road and essentially divided by USFS Road #705-707. Greater Vedauwoo extends southward from here to USFS Road #700 for the most part.

CLIMBING AT VEDAUWOO

“Climbing can be important for anyone. It teaches you to concentrate, how to reach a goal, and it will most likely change your perspective, not only of yourself but of the world. People are too used to living in the horizontal plane.”  — Catherine Destivelle

Luebben on Tripmaster Monkey (12b OW, Master Blaster Area)

Bechtel on Country Swing (11c, Spectreman Buttress)

Rock climbers come to Vedauwoo from all parts of the world to sample some of the best wide crack climbing (called “offwidths”) known. There were over 500 challenging and sometimes bloodthirsty traditional and sport climbs documented in the book entitled Heel and Toe, The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo, by myself (Skip Harper) and Rob Kelman. Published in 1994, this guidebook was the first of its kind to employ computerized graphics at high resolution (Photoshop didn’t exist!) and emphasized the illustration of real routes on real rock. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. Of course climbing at Vedauwoo has expanded considerably since Heel and Toe. Now there are over 900 climbs and new areas have evolved. Hopefully this website provides much broader coverage including most of this new development. If its not here now, it will be soon.

** NOTE: Three Guidebooks currently provide coverage of the Vedauwoo Area. These are detailed in the BOOKS section of this website.

Scott Miller taking on the challenging ‘Moonrise Variation’ (10d) in the Land of the Rising Moon.

 

 

“To climb smoothly between earth and sky in a succession of precise and efficient movements induces an inner peace and even a mood of gaiety. It is a well-regulated ballet”. – Gaston Rebuffat

Notes on Climbing Here in General

A painful howl echoed through the woods “this thing is eating me alive”! I had to chuckle as I recalled my first experience climbing at Vedauwoo. The precambrian granite is laced with huge feldspar crystals with scalpel like edges that can impart much more than just friction to a climbers body parts. It has been stated that this attribute tends to “filter out the weak, the soft and the spineless, which leaves better company for you”(Todd Skinner). Also be forewarned, the climbs are notoriously difficult. Solid 5.11 leaders have been sandbagged by many routes of lesser grade. Whatever the case, its a good idea to ‘tape up’ when climbing here and, for those who can get past these things, absolutely world class climbing experiences can be found.

*READ “A NOTE ON GEAR

Perhaps offwidths (cracks wider than your fist, yet narrower than your body width), more than any other type of climb have formed the basis of Vedauwoo’s widespread reputation. Many a seasoned crack climber has looked up into the gaping jaws of one of these gut wrenching monsters and just walked away. But if wide cracks are your fare, this is the place! TAKE A LOOK AT THE VIDEO TO THE RIGHT TO FIND OUT WHAT CLIMBING AN OFFWIDTH IS ALL ABOUT, AS WELL AS AN INTERESTING TOUR AROUND VEDAUWOO!! (Big thanks to Pamela Pack and her ‘team’ for this vid! She is one incredible offwidthing phenom!) Next, check out Luebben ‘handstacking’ up Bell Crack (11b) just below. Other examples of OFFWIDTHS are Horn’s Mother (11a) on the Coke Bottle (a long, two pitch body-rending grind) and Trip Master Monkey (12b) in the Master Blaster Area. On a much more moderate note is Hideaway Chimney, a choice 5.5inside double dihedral found on the Holy Saturday Formation. So anyone can enjoy offwidthing (is this possible??) if you know where to look.

*PLEASE READ THE “SITE WAIVER

Hand and finger cracks abound in the area, many of which are considered superior lines. Friday the 13th on the Nautilus is one such climb, an exquisite, 3 pitch long line of the purest hand jamming found anywhere. The first pitch is about 60 feet of superb 9+ hands, the second pitch (roof) goes about 10b and the third pitch (roof), at 11d or so, requires a true cowboy attitude or you’ll get bucked right off!! That’s where Steve Bechtel is in the bottom photo on the home page, the third pitch! Or try the super thin fingers of Blade Runner (11b) seen in the shot to the right. On a lighter note, try Strawberry Jam on the Crystal Freeway for the best handcrack at 5.8 in all of Vedauwoo.

A variety of face climbs have been created by the artistic skill of local climbers who have visualized lines into otherwise unattainable vertical terrain. “Fall Wall” (10a) on the Fall Wall formation is a moderate bolted face climb whereas Space Oddity (12a) is found on the Coke Bottle and offers a superb challenge of delicate, dance-like moves up a 120′ crystalline face. North Shore (13a/b) on Holdout will challenge the best of sports or try the more recreational 2nd Iteration (10c) in Jurassic Park. The shot is of Jim Ghiselli on Braggin’ About Jesus (10a) in Blair.

Mixed climbs sharing more than one climbing style (ie off width plus considerable hand and/or finger jamming; or hands plus bolted face, etc.) are also found throughout the area and offer a special challenge to those proficient at only one or two climbing forms. The one at left is Master of Sport (12b), starting with strenuous fingers and ending with handjamming. Stinkzig (5.7) on the Nautilus is another climb in the more moderate grades, and Boardwalk (11b) on the Coke Bottle is one of the harder ones. Also see Turnaround (10b/c) on Blair 2 in the New Climbs Section.

GO TO . . . .

CENTRAL VEDAUWOO

THE ROCK FORMATIONS OF CENTRAL VEDAUWOO

The little schematic on the right also represents Central Vedauwoo. It corresponds to the area marked ‘A’ on the orientation map shown at the bottom of the Intro Section.

On it you can also see Road # 700 to # 702 to the parking areas (shown in black / black dots). Trails to the climbing areas are shown in red.

The red line extending around the rock formations (shown in blue) is the Turtle Rock Trail (TRT) and the one in the middle is the Box Canyon Trail (BCT).

To get an idea of the scale of things, the Turtle Rock Trail is just about three miles long, end to end.

Click on the boxes below to find route topos and beta about each area.

Fall Wall

Fall Wall is the most popular crag/area at Vedauwoo – everyone just seems magnetically attracted to the place. Fall Wall is the rightmost (eastmost) component of the South Face of the Central Massif (CM in the above topo)

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Coke Bottle

THE COKE BOTTLE A straight on view of the Coke Bottle – Coke Bottle ‘Center’ (Walt’s Wall to the left, Fall Wall to the right), The Coke Bottle is one of three prominent south facing formations of the Central Massif. It gets sun most of the day and it is easily...

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Walt’s Wall

WALT’S WALL Home of the ‘must do’ EDWARD’S CRACK. HERE’S THE MAIN FACE OF WALT’S WALL (WW) Walt’s Wall Area, and particularly its namesake climb named “Walt’s Wall”, has been climbed more than any other area in Vedauwoo. It was named for Walt Sticker, who climbed the...

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Chinatown

CHINATOWN Go to the (West) Turtle Rock Trailhead, take the trail and go through the gate. Chinatown is approximately 200 yards down the trail on your right. A couple of these routes have been climbed in the past, but none have been documented for the public until now....

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Master Blaster

MASTERBLASTER This is a fairly hidden area, but most sought after for its namesake climb MASTER BLASTER, a severely overhanging ‘test piece’ hand and fist crack about 5.10c. It is strenuous at the grade and has ‘blasted’ more than a few climbers who claim to be ‘5.10...

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Hassler’s Hatbox

HASSLER’S HATBOX HASSLER’S is an aesthetic, miniature climbing amphitheater with over a dozen unusually adventurous, choice routes ranging from a 5.6 crack inside of a crack …. to a nearly unclimbable 5.12 off width called 'LUCILLE'. You will be ‘above’ the crowd with...

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Holy Saturday

HOLY SATURDAY Where is it? Holy Saturday is about 600 hundred yards down the Turtle Rock Trail (using the west trailhead), past the first beaver ponds (see first shot). It is one of the most aesthetic and photographed formations at Vedauwoo as it stands in monolithic...

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Foreign Territory

FOREIGN TERRITORY Where is it? Just past the north side of Holy Saturday along the Turtle Rock Trail, a faint trail leads northeast uphill into this cool little climbing sanctuary. FOREIGN TERRITORY TOPOS The south facing wall... 1.) Who The Devil Is Charlie Creese?...

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Jurassic Park

JURASSIC PARK About 200 yards beyond Holy Saturday along the Turtle Rock Trail, on past the trail to Foreign Territory, you will find a three-layered boulder stacked about 15′ high on the right (E). The trail up to Jurassic Pass and down into Jurassic Park is just...

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Glen Dome

GLEN DOME Glen Dome is also the site of an interesting, very moderate tourist trail that goes to (near) the top of the formation. Nice vistas !! GLEN DOME Glen Dome is also the site of an interesting, very moderate tourist trail that goes to (near) the top of the...

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The Solar Collector

SOLAR COLLECTOR Where is it? About half way around the Turtle Rock Trail, you will see Solar Collector about 100 yards to the north.  The above shot is taken from the top of Glen Dome (VM = Valley Massif;  SC = Solar Collector;  TRT = Turtle Rock Trail).  If you’re...

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Turtle Rock

TURTLEROCK HOME OF THREE VERY UNIQUE AREAS: LAND OF THE RISING MOON HYPERTENSION HEARTBREAK HOTEL TURTLEROCK Rob Kepley proving he's a 'Master of Sport' (12c) HOME OF THREE VERY UNIQUE AREAS: LAND OF THE RISING MOON HYPERTENSION and HEARTBREAK HOTEL For More...

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Land of the Rising Moon

LAND OF THE RISING MOON How do I get here?? See another MAP. Not so easy to find, just head towards Glen Dome, and BEFORE you get there, veer up and right. Keep going until you reach flat ground between Glen Dome and Turtle Rock. It’s not much...

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Heartbreak Hotel

HEARTBREAK HOTEL ”Since my baby left me, I’ve found a place to dwell…” 1.) Atherolichenous Plaque (*11a start, then 9+) Begin in a challenging offwidth slot (crux) that used to be overgrown with lichen using a #4 Bro or # 2 Dude. Then move...

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The Hypertension Cirque

THE HYPERTENSION CIRQUE A hidden, beautiful little cirque is found on the NE top of Turtle Rock. Only two routes exist here at present, and one is the highly sought after area’s namesake climb “Hypertension”, a severely overhanging, very challenging and strenuous...

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Friction Tower

FRICTION TOWER HOME OF THE CRYSTAL FREEWAY The Crystal Freeway makes up the entire north face of the Friction Tower in Central Vedauwoo. It’s one of the true hidden wonders of the area. It’s a gigantic upturned slab that appears smooth from a...

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Old Easy

OLD EASY “M R C” Amongst more than 800 challenging and sometimes bloodthirsty crack and sport climbs lie some real classic lines. The best of all may be ‘MRC’, the “Mountaineer’s Rock Climb”, on the west face of Old Easy. When viewed from the west, from the Lower...

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Poland Hill

POLAND HILL Poland Hill can be seen from just about everywhere in Vedauwoo. In fact its the first formation one sees when turning off Interstate I-80 and heading towards Central Vedauwoo on USFS Road #700. Its shape was most likely responsible for the name of the...

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The Valley Massif

THE VALLEY MASSIF According to nearly everyone who has climbed here, it is well worth the journey, sometimes battling swarming mosquitos and slogging through swampy bogs, and many return time after time. The Valley Massif is an incredibly aesthetic formation, a silent...

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The Reynolds Complex

THE REYNOLD'S COMPLEX This very aesthetic area is really composed of Reynold’s ‘Hill’ and three other very distinct formations including Gorilla Rock, The Granite Staircase and The Vertical Freeway. A  G E N E R A L  O V E R V I E W ...

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Reynold’s Southeast

REYNOLD’S SOUTHEAST Reynold’s Southeast is a big broad expanse of (generally) user friendly granite.   The routes are of moderate difficulty, long, adventurous and less often climbed than others at Reynold’s.  Note the descent for most climbs is a rather sketchy...

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Reynolds Right

REYNOLD’S RIGHT THE TOPO 17.) Labyrinth 9 Described in Reynolds Left. 18.) Connecticut Yankee 10c Just right of Labyrinth, this is a thought-provoking series of cracks leading to a squeeze near the top. Interesting climb and worth the effort....

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Reynold’s Left

REYNOLD’S LEFT THE TOPO 3.) Pooh Corner 10b First pitch is a perfect 5.9 hand crack to rap chains/anchors about 50 feet above. Second pitch (start of second pitch is shown in photo below) is intimidating, overhanging off width (probably 10a,b)...

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The Vertical Freeway

THE VERTICAL FREEWAY Here’s an informative shot of the “backside”, the NE exposure of the Reynold’s Complex; VF = Vertical Freeway, R = Reynold’s proper, GC = Granite Staircase. There is a place where “ALL ROADS GO UP”. The Vertical Freeway (VF) can be seen from the...

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Granite Staircase

GRANITE STAIRCASE An orientation shot (above) showing the NE FACES of both GRANITE STAIRCASE (GS) and GORILLA ROCK (GR) with its two alcoves (1 and 2) in which climbs are located. Granite Staircase, part of the Reynold’s Complex, has 6 routes, one is on the southwest...

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Gorilla Rock

GORILLA ROCK Kepley clipping a wire near top of ‘GLORIA’ See the orientation MAP, top of Granite Staircase Page. Gorilla Rock, part of the Greater Reynold’s Area, is a quiet, secluded refuge capping a densely forested hillside. Those that know about it covet the shady...

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Holdout

HOLDOUT working...   Hey dude, where is this place?? Holdout is a superb formation literally bursting with climbing delights. The first documented ascent of this formation was on April 11th, 1954 when John Lund and Walt Sticker made it to the summit. They carried a...

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The Nautilus

THE NAUTILUS SECTORS OF THE NAUTILUS (explained below) North Side: the PROW, NE Nautilus, NCentral Nautilus, NW Nautilus. South Side: West End, SW Nautilus, SCentral Nautilus, SE Nautilus, Fri 13th. The BOAT ROCK Captain Nemo never figured on this!! What a superb...

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Nautilus: The North Side

THE NORTH SIDE North East: Bug Squad, Maxilash, Captain Nemo, Nemo’s Nemesis, Auto Supply, Horticulture, Cannonball and other exceptional climbs are located here. North Central: Mainly the Cool Hand Luke Area and the Tongue Depressor. YES, that’s someone rapping off...

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Nautilus: The South Side

THE SOUTH SIDE 1.) South West: The location of the Three Sisters Area, Ted’s Trot, Candlestick, Practice Slab, etc. 2.) South Central: Flying Buttress, Stinkzig, Handjacker and Progressive are found here. 3.) South East: You’ll find climbs like October Light,...

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Box Canyon Map

BOX CANYON MAP RED #1 = Take the Box Canyon Trail leading up to Glen Dome ( # 2 ) from the lower parking lot. (There is a small, but well-built bridge just past the intersection of the red and blue lines. Sorry it’s not indicated on the map.) This is an easy trail,...

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THE OUTBACK AREAS

MANY SUPERB FORMATIONS SURROUND CENTRAL VEDAUWOO. There is probably more climbing and especially adventurous routes on these unique and challenging crags than there is in all of Central Vedauwoo. Some formations are large and significant such as those found in the GREATER REYNOLD’S AREA, BLAIR, and the CITADEL, while others are more compact (POLAND ‘HILL’ and the VALLEY MASSIF) and sometimes hidden such as SOUTH CORNER, THE SOLAR COLLECTOR and the more recently developed A-MAZE-ING.

If you take the time….. to explore these gems, you will find a surprisingly wide range of routes from light, recreational and moderate to very difficult and highly technical and very difficult in nature. While some climbs are quite simple and straight forward like ………. to challenging, hard off widths like those found at the VERTICAL FREEWAY, mixed lines like ………. DON’T MISS OUT ON THESE unique, uncommon and exceptional experiences.

BELOW YOU WILL FIND SOME CLICKABLE MAPS OF THESE AREAS. GO AHEAD AND EXPLORE AROUND. ODDS ARE YOU WILL FIND WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR. This is a work ‘still in progress’, so everything won’t be covered for awhile. It should be obvious that the marked/numbered red lines are USFS Roads, while the unmarked red lines are major trails. Also, you can still use the hotlink list at the left to get to where you ‘want to go’.

** SEE CLICKABLE ‘IMAGE MAPS’ BELOW.
Approaching the steep face of ‘Uncertainty Principle’ (11b/c, A-Maze-ing Crag).

Click on the boxes below to find more information about your area.

H&I Crag

H&I Crag in the outback area of Vedauwoo consists of H’ (aka Rusty the Pig) 10c, ‘I’ (aka Animal Cracker Land) 11b, and Jay Bird 10d Hand crack(s).

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Westworld

WESTWORLD Here’s a shot of Date with a Dike 10d 4 bolts – One of two climbs here right now. The other, Pollyanna Goes to Hell 11a Chimney to a partially detached flake is found about 25′ right. More details later. WESTWORLD Here's a shot of Date with a Dike 10d  4...

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Parade Rock

PARADE ROCK Check out the MAP on the Outback Areas section of Vedauwoo to orient to where this little rock is. Small it might be, but one of the routes (#1) is a very well-known, yet aesthetic finger buster (oxymoron-ic). There’s been many a fall taken on this one....

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Spelunk Spire

SPELUNK SPIRE Yes, the hardmen of old even found this place. Its an adventure to get here, let alone to climb it. There are some old iron pegs up in here if you look for them. Looks like Mickey Mouse ears up top, an easy way to identify this high formation from a long...

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End of the Road Rock

END OF THE ROAD ROCK Here’s a long shot of End Of The Road Rock taken from Road 700bb looking west. The road ends right at the rock. The trail to ‘THE OUTBACK’ starts almost where the road ends. This has turned into a very popular, yet still secluded formation. There...

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Amaze-ing

AMAZE-ING Upon first view, this crag seems like a ‘jumbled pile’, a MAZE of upturned flakes and blocks with little or no organization, nothing climbable, and in fact it was passed by on many occasions. It is nestled in a pristine setting, a small remote valley choked...

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Citadel Rock

CITADEL ROCK THE SOUTHWEST MAIN EXPOSURE ( * NW FACE IS FOUND BELOW) THIS IS A great place to be, sunny most of the day, with moderate to fairly hard routes. THE SOUTHWEST MAIN EXPOSURE ( * NW FACE IS FOUND BELOW) THIS IS A great place to be, sunny most of the day,...

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The Citadel Area

THE CITADEL AREA The Citadel Area is tucked away within several small, loosely interconnected valleys choked with aspen and pines near gurgling streams and beaver dams along the south fork of Middle Crow Creek. The only intruders you’ll find are occasional cattle,...

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The Short Wall

THE SHORT WALL Home of ‘The Short Wall’ and ‘The Superb Arete’ One of the most unique, daring and bold lines at its grade, ‘SPIT OFF’ (5.11c, 5 bolts, #1) was put up by Ken Driese and Larry Scritchfield in 1991. The gut-wrenching step ‘across the void’ to start the...

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Plumb Line Rocks

PLUMBLINE The Plum Line crags are nestled in their own aesthetic setting, one of several miniature valleys that form ‘The Citadel Area’. It actually consists of four loosely connected formations. The largest is the two-tiered ‘Plumb Line’ Crag itself as shown below....

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Mechanical Transmission Crag

MECHANICAL TRANSMISSION CRAG 1.) Worm Drive 11b Thrutch your’ way up a nasty fat crack with a ceiling and keep going – if you can!! Scarpelli and McGann ’85. 2.) First Gear 9 Have a go at a slightly less strenuous ‘wide one’. WHO DID THIS ONE FIRST?? DESCENT: A fixed...

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Blair

BLAIR OVERVIEW INTRODUCTION The well-kept secrets of Blair are slowly being discovered. Blair is the ultimate Klettergarten of Greater Vedauwoo and actually has a climbing history stretching back into the mid nineteen hundreds. It is far off the beaten track and away...

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Lower Blair

LOWER BLAIR You just can't miss Lower Blair. Driving down (basically east) Road #707 from the 'Blair Underpass', three closely situated monoliths begin appearing ahead of you. At first they seem rather unsubstantial against the background of the Sherman Mountains, but...

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Upper Blair

UPPER BLAIR UPPER BLAIR is literally bursting with high quality climbs - if you know where to find them. When I first started trying to make sense out of it (mid eighties), I was blown away by the unruly disorganization of the place. One look at the 'Upper Blair Topo'...

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* * * * THE GREATER REYNOLD’S AREA * * * *

Historical evidence indicates that all formations besides/excluding the main
Reynold’s Formation are part of the DEVIL’S PLAYGROUND. We shall see about this soon.

OUTLYING AREAS

Luebben inverted on ‘Squat’ (12b OW at the Roof Ranch).
Several outlying crags are accessed by Happy Jack Road. These are:

  • The Roof Ranch, including the Bunkhouse and Rusty Rock
  • Eagle Rock
  • Jetstream

NEW ROUTES

Since publication of Heel and Toe in 1994, considerable route development has taken place.

Here is a sampling of these new creations with descriptions and topos found below.

1.) Revenge of the Nothing

2.) Mr. Rockbiter

3.) Jamminy Crackup

4.) Creature Features

5.) Turnaround

1.) REVENGE OF THE NOTHING

“Revenge of the Nothing” (11b/c) was put up on the right end of the COKE BOTTLE in Central Vedauwoo in 1995. It is a fairly long, steep, one pitch bolted (12 bolts) face route that traverses right from the start of “The Neverending Story” before it ascends the rightmost water streak. The traverse is extremely delicate, requiring lots of precision footwork and sidepulls using small crystals. As the traverse transitions vertically, thin exfoliation edges are found within the scoop of the waterstreak and a sequential series of small crystals provides additional purchase. A Fixe Ring anchor set was placed onSphinx Ledge at the top of the climb.

Mark Duff negotiating the very delicate, balancy traverse on Revenge of the Nothing.
“Revenge” can be reached in two ways. First, one can step right soon after the crux of Mainstreet to a sizable corbel, above which has been placed a double anchor belay station. This is the traditional start for Neverending Story. Alternatively, the route can be accessed from above by first rappelling to Sphinx Ledge and then rappelling to the bottom belay station. One can either pull the rope for a free ascent, or the climb can be top roped from this position.
DESCENTS: 1.) A double rope rap will get you to the bottom of the route from Sphinx Ledge. 2.) A single will get you to the bottom belay station at the start of ‘Neverending Story. From here you can make another rap to the bottom. 3.) You can ascend to the top of the formation on any route and use rap stations on Fall Wall or Walt’s Wall.
*NOTE: The names of these climbs (including Neverending Story, Revenge of the Nothing, Mr. Rockbiter and the Sphinx Ledge), first used by Layne Kopischka, were derived from Michael Ende’s fantasmical novel “Neverending Story.”

2.) MR. ROCKBITER
Another new route, “Mr. Rockbiter”, was put in at the same time as “Revenge” on the COKE BOTTLE. This is a 10a bolted route that ascends from Sphinx Ledge to the top of the formation (see the topo for “Revenge”) where a two Fixe Ring rap station is placed. While relatively short, 6 bolts, it offers a sporty line to finish off any of the four bolted routes below, as well as Mainstreet, that ascends to Sphinx Ledge.

3.) JAMMINY CRACKUP
Jamminy Crackup (11c) is a mixed (trad and bolted) climb on the northeast corner of John’s Tower in Blair that will test your skill at gymnastic movement from the start. TAPE UP! The entry moves involve nearly inverting on good hand jams to obtain a heel hook with the right foot, enabling one to gain access to the main crack system by shuffling the jams upward enough to reach a good climbing position after several feet. Place a good cam or two (2.5 Friends) or a cam and a passive piece to protect these rather daunting beginning moves. Get a 1.5 or 2 Friend ready to slam into the crack above as soon as possible. Continue past a horizontal crack and protect well here because the crux section above needs to be negotiated fairly rapidly as it is very strenuous off-fingers. Proceed to jam the slightly flaring off-fingers crack section which is slightly overhanging and leans to the right. You might be able to get in a 0.5 Camalot here, but the first good pro comes at the next horizontal crack about 12 feet above. Nearing the end of the crack system about 40′ up, better edges and flakes are found and medium sized pro goes in well. A fixed stopper is found at the end of the crack near the shelf. It has been left for two reasons; first, several falls have set it well, and second, it keeps the rope from being eaten by the crack as the headwall is climbed.

The HEADWALL offers three different lines to the top, two are bolted and one protects scantily with a tcu and/or 2 or 3 small wires. Pick your grade to finish, 11a (leftmost, 2 bolts), 10b (center, 2 bolts) or 9 (rightmost). All three lines lead to the same Fixe Ring anchor set at the top of the headwall. Rappel 85 feet to the ground. Use caution if using a 50-meter rope as it barely stretches to reach the bottom.
Get to Jamminy Crackup, park near the 8 Ball in Blair. Take the trail heading SW out of the campsites amongst the large boulders and continue about 300 yards into a small valley separating the 8 Ball from John’s Tower. When an old barbed wire fence is reached, turn uphill (approx.SE) before crossing it and continue uphill on a winding faint trail. After about 200 yards, the trail begins to steepen and you will find a trail cutting up and right. Take this to the saddle between John’s Tower and the Heap to a high point where you should be looking south (across a valley) at the smooth north face of West and Middle Corner. At this point, look directly to your right (west) and you will see Jamminy Crackup.

4.) CREATURE FEATURES
Found on the south side of the Blair 1 Formation, Creature Features is three, yes three, routes in one. It was put up in ’95 and named in part for a close-by Scarpelli classic “Little Creatures”. There is a 90-foot rap from the top where there is a Fixe Ring anchor set.
1.) 5.9, takes some wide pro.
2.) 10b, two alternatives, one is thin.
3.) 11a/b, a tough pull over a bulging hand crack – tape up for sure.

5.) T U R N A R O U N D
Watch and pen, lighter adult man was once known as the “three treasures”, every man must never be away from the body. The iwc replica same thing with jewelry is that in the replica watches social occasions people wear watches often reflect their status, identity and wealth status. Therefore, in interpersonal communication, people wear watches, especially men’s watches, most eye-catching. Table is a symbol of life quality and status. The invention of fake rolex watches the watch from a very intuitive concept, the body will become easy to carry large bell, convenient for people to know the time. See a man has no taste, do not look at his appearance, do not look at his height, does not see his wallet, do not look at rolex replica watches his qualifications, as long as his hand wear, neck, waist circumference is three feeling. And the best thing to eat is on the hand.

Here’s a ‘mixed’ line that promises unique adventure and challenge for anyone climbing at the grade. Turnaround, actually put up in ’93, is all trad. It begins with a marginally protectable offwidth trough at 5.8+ for about 40 feet to a ledge. Once the ledge is attained, a large chockstone is surmounted and one “turns around” (ie faces in the opposite direction, towards the south) to find two cracks leading to the top. One on the (now right) wall is 5.8 and can be linked with the lower off width as one long line at 5.8. We are calling this Turnaround 1. To the (now) left of this is one of the finest 5.10c/d finger cracks at Vedauwoo seen in the shot at left. The super lock-offs are reminiscent of those found in Mandella on Holdout. We are calling it Turnaround 2.
Descent is via a Fixe Ring Anchor set placed on the face roughly 50 feet directly north from the top of the climb. The rap takes you straight down the wide face that you saw from the bottom of the climb. To get to the rap station is rather circuitous, but well worth it and the rap takes you to the exact base of the climb. *NOTE: 90 foot rap!! One can also downclimb the Northeast end of the formation, but its quite dicey.
Turnaround is located on the southeast face of Blair 2 in Lower Blair. Perhaps the easiest way to locate the climb is to first find “Deadman’s Glove” and proceed about 20 feet to the right around the corner. You will see the steep offwidth trough at this point, but not the cracks which are hidden from view above. If you get to the very large boulder leaning against the face of Blair 2 under which there is a cave, you have gone too far.

Check Out These New ONES!!

* * * * * * * * *

RECOMMENDED CLIMBS

Check out the LIST OF RECOMMENDED CLIMBS below, some of the highest quality routes in each grade and in each climbing form (face, fingers, hands, offwidth). Try one of these, or strike out on your own. HAVE A BLAST.

               CLIMB                       LOCATION                TYPE             RATING

bullet Etude for the right hand      Nautilus SE              face                    5
bullet Cornelius                           Nautilus NW           fingers                 5
bullet Edward’s Crack                Walt’s Wall               hands                5
bullet Hideaway chimney            Holy Saturday          offwidth               5
bullet Moor Crossing                  Reynold’s SE              face                 6
bullet Kim                                  Poland Hill RB       hands, fingers        6
bullet Step Ladder                      Nautilus SE             offwidth              6
bullet Stinkzig                              Nautilus SE              varied                6+
bullet Cold Fingers                     Fall Wall                     face                 7
bullet Petit Arbre                     Blair I, west end           hands                7
bullet Zipper, 2nd pitch           Valley Massif NW         hands                7
bullet Social security ran out     Valley Massif SE           face                 8
bullet Dirt* Pictures from the Prom     Master Blaster      face                8
bullet Strawberry Jam                Crystal Freeway          hands               8
bullet Vulture                             Nautilus E end           offwidth              8
bullet Waterstreak #2                  Walt’s Wall                face                 9
bullet Finger Grinder                    Reynold’s                 fingers               9
bullet Pooh Corner, 1st pitch       Reynold’s                  hands                9
bullet Finally                             Nautilus W end           offwidth              9
bullet Fall Wall, lower pitch           Fall Wall                   face                 10a
bullet Mr. Rockbiter                 Coke Bottle Right          face                 10a
bullet Neon Madman                    Fall Wall                  fingers                10a
bullet SS Maywood                North Corner, Blair        hands                10a
bullet Mainstreet                        Coke Bottle               offwidth              10a
bullet 1st Iteration                      Jurassic Park                 face                 10b
bullet Beef Eater                        Holdout NW                hands                10b
bullet Flying Buttress                   Nautilus SW              offwidth              10b
bullet Currey’s Diagonal              Holdout NW              varied                10b
bullet 2nd Iteration                       Jurassic Park               face                  10c
bullet Seam Variation                       MRC                     fingers               10c
bullet Pen*s Dimension                   Reynold’s                 hands                10c
bullet Jay’s Solo Citadel               Short Wall                Offwidth             10c
bullet Date with a Dike                  Westworld                  face                10d
bullet Ultraviolets                     John’s Tower SE            fingers               10d
bullet Lichen Lung                       Jurassic Park                hands              10d
bullet Left Torpedo Tube          Nautilus E end               offwidth            10d
bullet Gunga Din                           Fall Wall                      face                11a
bullet Mandela                            Holdout SE                  fingers              11a
bullet H*ng Like a Horse              Reynold’s                    hands              11a
bullet Maxilash                           Nautilus NW               offwidth             11a
bullet Neverending Story       Coke Bottle  Right               face                11b
bullet What the French Girl Said     North Corner        fingers, hands       11b
bullet Hesitation Blues                 Nautilus SE                   hands              11b
bullet Worm Drive                        Citadel                      offwidth             11b
bullet Boardwalk                       Coke Bottle              fingers / varied       11b
bullet Revenge of the Nothing    Coke Bottle Right             face               11c
bullet Max Factor                       Nautilus, NW                fingers             11c
bullet Spectreman                     The Heap, Blair                hands             11c
bullet Right Torpedo Tube          Nautilus Prow              offwidth            11c
bullet Eleven Cent Moon             Holdout NW                  face               11d
bullet Bug Squad                         Nautilus NW                fingers             11d
bullet Easter Island                     North Corner                  face               12a
bullet Space Oddity                Coke Bottle Right               face               12a
bullet Fing*r Fant*sy                 Old Easy, top                 fingers              12a
bullet I’d Rather be in Philadelphia     Reynold’s               hands              12a
bullet Fourth of July                 Coke Bottle Left               varied              12a
bullet New Maps of Hell        Valley Massif NW               face                12b
bullet Hypertension                  Turtle Rock, top               fingers              12b
bullet Mr. Chimp                       FrictionTower                  hands              12b
bullet Squat                                Roof Ranch                  offwidth             12b
bullet Pretty Girl* with Long Knives      Blair III NW        varied               12b
bullet New Mutant                      Nautilus SE               fingers, hands        12c/d
bullet Lucille                             Hassler’s Hatbox            offwidth              12c/d
bullet North Shore                       Holdout NW                  face                 13a/b
bullet Silver Salute                    Coke Bottle, Left               face                 13a/b

The History of VEDAUWOO

While it is believed that man was present in the southeastern quadrant of Wyoming for 15 to 20,000 years, fluted Clovis points (arrowheads) have been found in the general area of Laramie, indicating continuous, albeit scanty habitation about 11,000 years ago. The presence of man in the region now known as the Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest (including the Snowy Range, Sherman Mountains, and Vedauwoo) stretches back about 8,000 years, based upon a few small archeological sites with unique stone knives and lanceolate points called “Cody Complexes”. These people were nomadic hunters, very dependent upon wandering large mammals for their existence. As the weather trended towards more temperate conditions about 5,000 years ago, the plains and intermountain regions became more highly populated. This seems to coincide with an upswing in short grass production on the high plains and consequently, influx of massive buffalo herds.

Despite rudimentary evidence indicating Spaniards may have been in the area earlier, French maps indicate trapping activities were occurring during the mid 1700’s. Euro-Americans began encroaching more heavily into the area in the early 1800’s, primarily exploring for western passage through the mountains, and for exploiting natural resources. In 1843, Fremont (the pathfinder), proceeded up the South Platte to the eastern base of the Front Range in Colorado, turning north to Fort Laramie. This route, known as the Overland Trail, was heavily used from about 1860 to 1880. It followed modern Colorado Highway 287 straight north from LaPorte, Colorado to Laramie, bypassing Vedauwoo to the west. While principal trade and migratory routes (like the Overland Trail) skirted Vedauwoo, the railroad did not. The Union Pacific Railroad was the chief catalyst in opening the Medicine Bow region to exploration and settlement in the mid to late 1860’s. Fort Buford, Sherman, Laramie City and other small settlements sprang up as the line advanced westward. Vedauwoo, then known by some as “Skull Rocks”, was completely denuded of forestation by tiehacks, later to be reforested by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s. The Ames Monument, which can be seen on the plains to the south from Vedauwoo, was built to commemorate the highest point on the line. Despite indian attacks, bad weather, engineering problems, and logistical setbacks, the transcontinental railroad was completed in 1869.

Following widespread tribal migrations in the eighteenth century, the major Indian tribes using the general area were the Arapaho, Cheyenne, Sioux, Shoshone and Ute. Territorial claims by these various tribes were often exaggerated, overlapping and never secured by sustained use or warfare. Certainly, up through the late 1800’s, the Medicine Bow region was well known for hunting, raiding and trading and it was generally thought of as Arapaho and Cheyenne territory. There is local belief that the ‘Vedauwoo Rocks’ were held as a sacred area by these Indians who thought that the ‘sacred’ was not abstract and distant, but alive in every facet of nature. The ‘sacred’ could manifest itself through natural forces like thunder, wind, sun and moon, as well as through natural beings like the bear, antelope, and eagle. Vedauwoo may have been a site of “vision quests”, spiritualistic rituals of coming manhood, by young braves of these tribes.

The first transcontinental highway was proposed in 1912 by Carl Fisher, President of Prest-O-Lite Corporation, more as a publicity scheme than anything else. His company had just designed ingenious gas headlamps for automobiles. The cause was taken up by Henry Joy, President of Packard Motor Company, who proposed the name “Lincoln Highway”. A road 3500 miles long was carved out from New York to San Francisco and in 1919, Dwight D. Eisenhower, fresh out of West Point, accompanied a makeshift caravan of adventurers on the first trip. Obviously, the road bore no resemblance to the modern freeway, US Interstate 80, we know it as today. In more remote and unsettled sections of the country, it dwindled down to almost nothing but a thread of bare dirt disappearing off into the sagebrush. The road came right through southeastern Wyoming, its highest point being Sherman Hill near Vedauwoo. [ The photo at right shows the highway near the ‘summit’ after considerable improvement over 15 years later. The profile of Vedauwoo is clearly seen in the background. ]
This section of the road was the worst, wheels dropped off, tires disintegrated, radiators boiled over and axels cracked. Strong arms had to drag vehicles out of deep mud and across unbridged rivers. On the steepest grades near ‘piles of strange rocks’ (Vedauwoo?), gas tanks were so much lower than the carburetors, the whole caravan had to turn around and back up to get where they were going. They camped right there, spent from physical exhaustion. Despite 34 days of adversity, the enterprise was successful and the country began opening up to a new breed of adventuresome individuals. Today there is a 48′ high tower topped with a bust of Lincoln at ‘The Summit’ of Sherman Hill (5 miles west of Vedauwoo) commemorating the “Lincoln Memorial Highway”. Much more on the local history of this subject can be found HERE at this great resource.

Despite claims to the contrary, we DO KNOW where the name Vedauwoo comes from. It is an anglicized version of the Arapahoe word “biito’o’wu”The word came about through the interaction of Maybelle Land DeKay, (a Professor of English and Drama at the University of Wyoming in Laramie) and the Arapahoe Indians of the time – and it was used as the title of her play performed live at “Vedauwoo Glen” three times between 1928 and 1931. Ms. DeKay felt strongly the Indians had first discovered the true spirit of the landscape and decided to give her play an Indian name. She asked the Episcopal missionary John Roberts (an acquaintance who was living on the Wind River Reservation at the time) for an Indian word meaning ‘earthborn’. Roberts and Ms. DeKay thusly derived the word Vedauwoo from biito’o’wu.

According to Richard Moss, an authority on the Arapahoe language, “earth” is the denotative meaning of ‘biito o wu’, although it has the connotation of “earthborn” because Arapahoe cosmology dictates the earth is the source of all life. Incidentally, some refer to Vedauwoo as meaning “earthborn spirit” – which is incorrect according to Moss. Grammatically, this phrase is very different in Arapahoe: ‘beniito’wuu betee’ouw ceebii’oot’.

More detail about Ms. Dekay’s production is found HERE. There are many hard references to the etymology of the word vedauwoo including past newspaper articles, playbills and books, 2 of which describe it in considerable detail (see for example Chapter 3, ‘The Story of Vedauwoo -1924’, in “History of Dramatics at the University of Wyoming”, M. L. DeKay, self-published, 1936 – now part of the Hebard Collection, American Heritage Center, University of Wyoming Archives). Take a look at another such book covering the subject in the MUSEUM. It is also notable that railroad maps of the area relinquished the name Skull Rocks in favor of Vedauwoo Glen thereafter and maps and records of the Civilian Conservation Corps recorded the area as Vedauwoo Glenn in the 1930’s.

By the mid 1930’s, Vedauwoo had become a popular place for camping, picnics and other outdoor recreational activities. With the establishment of the Civilian Conservation Corps, facilities were upgraded and campsites multiplied. Following World War II, some (ex) members of the 10th Mountain Division registered for school at the University of Wyoming – for higher education and for the climbing available on the rocks at Vedauwoo and in the Snowy Range. The ‘Outing Club’ was formed and members began pioneering assaults on the oddly shaped, yet challenging rock formations at Vedauwoo and the shear rock faces near Medicine Bow Peak. Records were kept starting in 1953(see the Summit Register in the ‘Museum’), and names like Jerry Edwards, Rick Horn, Ray Jacquot, and Rich Baldwin became historic figureheads. Peter Koedt’s prescient development of the area called Fall Wall was remarkable. The area still exists today as the single most popular climbing area at Vedauwoo. As the number of routes continued to increase, Jim Halfpenny began keeping records of ascents and route topography. Jim’s first climbing guide entitled “Vedauwoo Climbing” (with co-author Jan Mathiesen) was self-published in 1966 and listed 33 climbs. The second Halfpenny guidebook titled “A Climber’s Guide to Southeastern
Wyoming” (also with Mathiesen) came out in 1971. It detailed 88 climbs in Vedauwoo and more in the surrounding areas. Even at that time, Halfpenny indicated great difficulty in obtaining first ascent information, a problem that fires up continuous controversy even today. [ The left photo is Jim Halfpenny in the late ’60’s, the right photo is Jim ‘now’ (’02). ] Today, Jim resides in Gardiner, Montana, a teacher, businessman and avid outdoorsman. Later, when the transition from aid climbing to free climbing was evolving, Layne Kopischka’s series of guide books (’82, ’87, ’92) provided invaluable, up to date climbing information, although unfortunately, first ascent information was left out. Kopishka (legendary ‘Coach’ and mentor of many young climbers) passed away in July of 1992 (an interesting short biography of Kopischka appeared in Outside Magazine, 12-’99). At the time of Kopischka’s last effort, there were approximately 220 climbs documented which were centered within Vedauwoo Glen,although considerable development had been taking place outside of the traditional area. Recognizing this, as well as our combined 28 years of climbing experience at Vedauwoo, Rob Kelman and I dedicated (at least) the next year (’93) to writing a much more comprehensive guidebook, called Heel and Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo Wyoming. Published in 1994, it was the first ‘digitized’ guidebook of it’s kind and contained detailed information on over 500 climbs. While primarily a climbing guide, it was also an informational resource for all recreational users of the area. Today, Vedauwoo is under the jurisdiction of the National Forest Service and is part of the Medicine Bow – Routt National Forest. It is designated as a semi primitive area and enjoyed by a broad array of recreational users. It remains a place of inherent natural beauty and mystery, seemingly frozen in time, due in large part to its strange rock formations and pleasant, aesthetic valleys. It is very near a principal transcontinental highway, I-80, and consequently, its pristine condition is becoming evermore threatened by the population explosion along the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains.

VEDAUWOO MUSEUM A COLLECTION OF OBJECTS OF LASTING AND HISTORIC VALUE

A “FRIEND”

Layne Kopischka was one of the figureheads in the development of Vedauwoo climbing. Not only did he write three guidebooks to the area as it ‘grew’ and matured as a climbing destination, but he mentored numerous young climbers and authored many memorable routes. Layne’s unfortunate passing was lamented by all, and there is no doubt his spirit still roams the natural wonderland of Vedauwoo today. Tangible evidence of his profound influences is being discovered even today such as that shown above, an ‘old style’ no. 2.0 Wild Country Friend with his initials clearly stamped into the stem.

Found and Donated by Steve Seckinger.

SUMMIT REGISTER

The first recorded climb in the Greater Vedauwoo Area was in 1953, although the University of Wyoming ‘Outing Club’ was active in the area in the late 1940’s. As the ex-members of the US Army’s 10th Mountain Division began attending the University, summiting the formations seemed to become a passion. Registers were placed on top of the formations, usually by the first ascenders and signed by all those who subsequently made the climb. These summit registers form a core component of the history of the area, and the adventurers whose names are found on them built the foundation of all climbing that was to come. This Summit Register, contained in an old Prince Albert tobacco tin, was found on the south shoulder of “The Vulture”, a huge prominence on the NE end of Blair 2 (*See photo above for detail of location). As evidenced from the photos, it was originally placed there on July 15, 1955 by Walt Sticker and Chuck Van Blair, the latter being the namesake of the entire Blair area. There are many small pages in this register, each of fascinating and historical significance.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Here’s where it all started…. the word ‘vedauwoo’, its etymology and its application to a specific geological location in southeast Wyoming. Also documented in many other places, this book is part of the evidence indicating the origin of this curious word. The book is replete with descriptive text and original photographs of the theatrical production(s) held at ‘Vedauwoo Glen’ between 1928 and 1931.

An Old Carabiner

rock climbing caribiner

An old caribiner

While climbing in the area now known as “Chinatown“, an old, well-used carabiner was found wedged deep inside a crack. It was obvious that it was taped with an identifying color band of plastic tape and some specifications (Carrico Minimo – 1800 Kg) were stamped on it. Also, the initials JFM were clearly stamped on the gate. When considering all names of people associated with Vedauwoo having those initials, only one name kept coming up – Jan Mathieson, the Co-Author of the first two guidebooks to rock climbing at Vedauwoo. Attempts were made to contact him to no avail. However, according to Jim Halfpenny, the other author of these books, this is the type carabiner used by Jan, the tape colors were used by him to identify his gear, and his initials are JFM. Until we hear differently, we are assuming this belongs to Jan. If so, it is well over 30 years old and part of the gear used by one of the original, very productive hardmen responsible for making Vedauwoo the superb climbing destination it is today.

The Little ‘Vedauwoo’ Tree

While not a part of Vedauwoo specifically, it is very close. The contours of Vedauwoo are clearly seen in the background of both photos above. The first, taken in 1927, reads “tree in the rock, famed landmark of Wyoming”. The second was taken 73 years later. This little tree is right on I-80 and seen by nearly everyone who passes by. It seems to grow out of solid rock, Sherman Granite, the same rock that forms the mysterious landforms found throughout Vedauwoo. It was first cited and sketched by Union Pacific Railroad personnel as they laid rails across Sherman Mountain in 1867, and it is said the indians had seen it for at least a century before that. The Lincoln Highway (the first transcontinental highway) was built right past the tree in 1913 and it became a favorite subject of early postcards. Although its age is unknown, limber pines (Pinus Flexilis) like this can live as long as 2,000 years. Today, although twisted and stunted from decades of ceaseless wind and other causes, it continues to survive as a curious historic landmark of Southeastern Wyoming and the Greater Vedauwoo area.

BOULDERING

Clinton McKinzie firing “Nat’s 3 Star Roof”, a perfect
horizontal hand crack
requiring a hand’s free bat hang thru one section !!
( photo by Vince Ruland )
RECENTLY, greater attention has been paid to bouldering at Vedauwoo. Some classic boulder problems have existed for years, like “University of Mars” in Lower Blair, however there is considerable unexploited potential to be found here.
A handful of local craggers and some wandering, wired bouldering enthusiasts have joined forces to create more boulder problems and document many of them. Some of this creative activity and a downloadable PDF can be found at ….
drtopo.com.
. . . . . ALSO . . . . .
A new edition of ‘the’ bouldering guidebook for Vedauwoo hit the stands this year (’05). Please go HERE for more information!!

BIKING

For sure there are biking opportunities throughout the entire POLE MOUNTAIN AREA, including trails winding through Greater Vedauwoo. There’s a wide spread of difficulty ranging from very easy roadways to moderate forest trails to flat bad and ultra challenging.
will finish soon ……
In the meantime, try this LINK. These are but a fraction of trails that are found within Greater Vedauwoo and the entire Pole Mountain Area.

HIKING at VEDAUWOO

There are many trails that thread through the Greater Vedauwoo area.
Some of these are indicated on the aerial shots of Central Vedauwoo and Upper & Lower Blair.
Another is the Turtle Rock Trail (TRT), a 3 mile long, USFS – constructed trail that circumnavigates the entire “Turtle Rock Massif.” One trailhead is found at the Holy Saturday parking lot. Originally a climbers trail providing access to more remote areas, it was upgraded in 1997 to accommodate day hikers and mountain bikes. You can see this trail on the little MAP, top right of Central Vedauwoo section.
The Box Canyon Trail (BCT) is seen on this same little MAP, and maybe better on THIS map. It follows an old Forest Service Nature Trail to near the top of Glen Dome where great views of the entire area can be found. There are some great trails around the Reynold’s Area and in the “Outback”, some of which are seldom used. Some of these link this area northward to Blair and on into the Pole Mountain Area, an outstanding day trip. Consider taking along some weather gear, food and water if you head off on the longer trails.

EXISTING TRAILS

Here’s the first effort at a map of existing trails in the Greater Vedauwoo area. It will be improved upon in time, however, it is noteworthy that there is a fairly detailed system of trails to be taken advantage of. Many are simply not used much at all, such as the Reynolds to Blair Trails, while the main trails are used heavily. Check it out and go exploring!! NOTE: Black = roads, light blue = streams, dark blue = major known formations, red = existing trails.

    • A = Central Vedauwoo
    • B = Reynolds and the Outback
    • C = Lower Blair

D = Upper Blair

CAMPING

Dispersed camping is free except where expressly prohibited. Vedauwoo is designated as a “White Arrow Management Area”, meaning you are supposed to camp within a maximum of 200 feet of any road. There is a use fee campground within the central area with 50 semiprimitive sites including access to water and heads (not showers). There is a use fee of $10.00 per night. There are three other USFS campgrounds close to Vedauwoo as well as camping at Curt Gowdy State Park on Happy Jack Road – go to the US Forest Service site for more information. Laramie, a university town with all amenities (including several very reasonable motels) and a population of about 30,000, is only 18 miles west. *NOTE : Road closures are also closing previously impacted, popular campsites, especially the area southeast of the Nautilus AND along the old Reynold’s Road #700D. Plan accordingly!
PLEASE : Leave campsites cleaner than you found them !!
Leave No Trace !!
There are 28 semiprimitive (‘designated) campsites available within the confines of Central Vedauwoo, all at a ‘first come-first served’ basis – each at a cost of $10 per night. There is usually water available, a head, picnic tables, grilles but no shower facilities. There is a 14 consecutive day limit to these sites.
Dispersed camping (‘non-designated camping) is allowed nearly everywhere else that it is not expressly prohibited, and there is no charge. It is highly recommended to make use of pre-utilized campsites at least 140’ from any road to help preserve the forests. Please clean up after yourself and LEAVE NO TRACE of your occupancy. Make it the same or better than when you came for the next visitors.
There are several other campgrounds within a radius of 6 miles of Vedauwoo. Curt Gowdy, Tie City and Yellow Pine are some of them. Of course Laramie, Wyoming is less than 20 miles west (and mostly downhill).
More details on the USFS Web Site.

ENGAGING FLORA AND FAUNA

There is surprising biodiversity to be found here and one form is the flora. While there is definitely a peak season for flowering plants, tending to be around the first of July, there are bursts of color throughout the summer.

For More Information see other Reynold's posts.