S. VALLEY MASsIF T O P O
S. Valley Massif
The South Face
**More route Details Soon............
15.) Ladder 7 Three 'vertical' cracks are seen on the left end of the formation. Ladder takes the first of the three, ie the leftmost. 2 pitches of about 5.3, then a headwall crack that goes about 7+. Rap off on the North side.
16.) Social Security Ran Out 8
17.) Reverse Q Mark 7 Kind of wierd.
18.)
19.) Dreaming of Babylon 10c Super climb, crux is steep fingers, but needs gardening at least once per year.
20.) Quits 9+ Great adventure. Ususally done as three pitches, starting in a wide trough to an overhanging hand/finger crack and then hand cracks to the top blocks. Top pitch (in the top blocks) slants left with little friction on your left.
21.) Falcon's Lair 7 Alt start to #20
22.) Hollerith Exit 8 Alt last pitch to #20, slightly to the right and goes straight up, hands.
23.) Bill Steal 6 Superb jamming at the grade - it doesn't get better that this. Usually belay slings at top. The shot is of Mat Allshouse finding textbook jams and protection on his first lead !
24.) Klarren 7 A climb up top, R around corner from #22
25.) Hooker 10c The classic Hooker dihedral. Thin and steep at the start (see shot of Stacy Bender just after the thin crux) and wide at the top. Traverses L into Bill Steal.
26.) Sunny Day 5 A scramble and grovel.
27.) My Blue Heaven (aka Cyber-way) 11a (** This rating may have gone up due to missing/weathered edges!) Find a thin right slanting ramp of shallow inclusions/corbels with three bolts. Crux is after the third bolt, goes straight up to anchors on very fine edges. Rap the route.
28.) Bittersweet 9 Find a significant right slanting ramp about 30 feet right (E) of #27, go up and traverse back left across thin territory, protected by a bolt, to find a beautiful hand crack. (NOTE: missing bolt on traverse HAS been replaced - see photo below - green line = Bittersweet, b = bolt.)
29.) Powder Puff 5 Crack at the top of the ramp in # 28. Nice, and may be a couple of moves harder than 5.
DESCENTS: Either rap the route, or if not feasible, walk off to the east.