SPELUNK S P I R E
SPELUNK SPIRE
Yes, the hardmen of old even found this place. Its an adventure to get here, let alone to climb it. There's some old iron pegs up in here if you look for them. Looks like Mickey Mouse ears up top, an easy way to identify this high formation from a long way off. Be sure to check out the MAP on the OUTBACK PAGE to orient yourself to existing trails.
DESCENT: downclimb.
1.) Space Shot 11a The roof is sustained fingers and liebacking. Get in a small cam or two on the way to the lip, and there's a great jam just above it. The near vertical crack is pretty straightforward at lesser grades from there, but it goes wide near the top, so preserve a big piece ( # 3.5 Camalot, or #4 Friend) or two for up high. Usually one pitch, belay on top with gear. (sh+ej, '94)
2.) Dermatome 9 Named for the poor guy who left significant skin and blood clots adhering to sharp crystals inside this offwidth prior to the FFA. (sh+ej, '94)
3.) Ouchithurts 10b/c A short, but stout vertical off fingers crack found about half way up the southwest side of the formation in behind a large flake. (sh+ej, '94)
This formation has a shoulder that stretches southward along a small valley until it terminates. There is a west to southwest facing wall along here with some established climbs on it. Here are a couple.
D.) Old Dog's New Trick 11c Probably more of a boulder problem, this is a splitter finger crack near the south terminus of the formation, about 30 yards south and around a corner from # W. See the shot. (B. Scarpelli, c '81)
P.) Paper Training 9+ Handjamming up to an overhanging crux. Found about 12 yards right of # W.
W.) Wrist Ranger 9 A 45 foot hand and fist crack. This crack actually faces NW and is found in a small, open recess. Rap slings usually at the top or scramble up unprotected face and walk off. See the photo. There is a substantial aspen grove along the main trail thru this area. This climb is directly E on the rockband at the northernmost extent of the aspen grove. Check out the MAP on the OUTBACK PAGE and you'll see two orange trails leading over towards Spelunk Spire. Take the rightmost trail - according to the map. (B. Scarpelli + P. Piana, '89)
