Scor

S O U T H CORNER

SOUTH CORNER

SOUTH CORNER is part of the FIVE CORNERS AREA in UPPER BLAIR.

A small, compact formation,

it sits atop a promontory west of East Corner and overlooks Lower Blair in the picturesque valley below.

The shot above left was taken from the West flank of East Corner looking westward. South Corner is shown at the arrow.

The history of South Corner goes back to the fifties (see below), but because of its

remoteness and apparent difficulty to locate (check out the map above right),

several lines were not climbed until more recently.

With short, unique routes of many grades, South Corner is a fantastic place to spend the day.

_____________N o r t h e a s t F a c e_____________

1.) Slab Route 5.6 Follow the crackline to a small roof and go left up a slanting dihedral to a headwall with lots of dished out depressions. Take your choice of rather run out lines to the top. Belay on top on gear. "1st ascent was on November 12, 1953 by John Lund and Walt Sticker via the 'Slab Route'. The first ascent of the route is not recorded in the summit register but in the private records of John Lund, who along with Vern Anderson, Tom Humphrey and Jim Harrower, put up the register on April 4, 1954. Descent (at this time): rappel off opposite sides." (Halfpenny, '72)

2.) Jim's Dihedral 5.7 Break off of #1, traversing slightly right past the small roof and ascend a well-protected right facing dihedral corner. This is a cool route at the grade. (Anon., c'57)

3.) Y Crack 5.7 Climb a wide, gnarly crack to underneath a large roof, passing it on the right to the top. (Anon., c'57)

CC) Read about Currey's Corner below. CC = the route called 'Currey's Corner'.

Descent: Rap anchors on top

_____________S o u t h w e s t F a c e_____________

** New Routes !!

1.) Name unknown (aka Last ride to Elysian Fields) 11b/c - R Found directly opposite Currey's Corner on the obvious shelf. Two bolts lead up this overhung, exposed and run out line about 20 feet left of #1. Actually, it is a fine line, taking advantage of small inclusions and mini-dikes and natural features. However it needs at least one, if not two more bolts. The start is very reachy for short people (c'95). Belay at the rap station. Get pumped up for this one Mr. Aggressive. (Anon., c'97)

2.) Down in Dixieland 10d Overhanging and strenuous jamming at the grade. Starts with fingers, goes to great hands and squeezes back down - with a big, daring throw to more hands. Looks easier than it is, get it on! Belay on gear. (sh+dl, '95)

3.) Southern Comfort 9+ Climb up to a bulging start over VERY polished rock bulges. Finishes left up uneven ground. Pour two fingers worth on top. Belay on gear. (sh+dl, '95)

4.) Way Down Yonder 10c Another overhanging, leaning, right-facing dihedral corner. Cool jamming and finishes up a left facing dihedral near the top. Fingers to hands to fists to a couple of stacks will get you down to Bourbon Street in style. The shots below show the crux crack 'straight in' (A), as well as from the side. The side view (B) also shows how overhung it is, and the incipient crack on the right hand wall that some take advantage of for pro. Belay on gear. (sh+dl, '95)

Descent: Rap station on top ................................

___________S o u t h E n d___________

** New Route !!

5.) Suck it up 10a - r? Short but exciting. Contort, gyrate and heel hook over two consecutive, smooth bulges before getting any pro. Have a good spotter!! Continue to the top using a well-deserved, much easier handcrack. Belay on gear. Whether its Dixie Beer, oysters or your manhood, you could enjoy it - or not. (sh+ss+ls,'96)

____________C u r r e y ' s C o r n e r___________

One of the oldest routes at South Corner is found on a mostly separated monolith to the immediate northwest of the main formation. Both the subformation and the route are called "Currey's Corner (CC)". The climb ascends the southeast corner of the structure on dishouts and thin edges, moving right as one progresses to the top. It is not protectable, ie it is run out and very exposed, achieving more than a modest pucker factor. "1st ascent March 3, 1957, Don Currey and John Lund. This is a very spectacular climb as it involves instant exposure when the climber steps across from the saddle between the South Corner and Currey's Corner. It used to be possible to protect the face, but since a flake has fallen off, little protection is available. .... Start at the NE corner from the saddle and traverse up to the right across the face. Look for T. G. (Thank God) holds. It is probably better to do this route with a rope over the top. Curreys Corner is the least climbed formation at Blair." (Halfpenny. J., '72) Descent (now): Rap anchors on top.

Upper Blair

Outlying Areas

Central Vedauwoo