REYNOLD’S RIGHT

THE TOPO

17.) Labyrinth 9 Described in Reynolds Left.

18.) Connecticut Yankee 10c Just right of Labyrinth, this is a thought-provoking series of cracks leading to a squeeze near the top. Interesting climb and worth the effort. (FFA: ?)

19.) Glenda’s Chimney 5 A big, wide V-shaped slot that also serves for a major rappel route from both Reynold’s Right and Left. Climb it and you may be going against heavy traffic. (Gampher and Becker, 65)

20.) Fat Man’s Demise 7 Can you imagine how this one got its name? After climbing it, you’ll have no doubt. (rap Glenda’s) (FA: Wilson, Beyer, Stiller, ’71)

21.) F*nger Grinder 9 Great climb up a long, right-leaning crack line. There’s a f*nger of rock on the right side. (rap slings/ top anchors). There’s a ‘left exit’ if you continue up and right on flakes. (FA: Fowler, Sublett and Garson, early ’70’s)

 

22.) Climb and Punishment 9+ The leftmost of three long and terrific climbs (#5, 6, 7) in an alcove. Just getting established in the crack at the start may be the crux – very awkward and testy, but the remainder of the climb is superb. The photo above shows Dave Bowling raging up this one. There are usually rap slings at top, but not guaranteed. (FA: McClure and Hesse, ’72)

23.) Climbs of Pas*ion Exit 11c An alternate, much harder exit to #5, the thin finger crack on the left wall about 2/3rds up #5 to the top. (FFA: Cowan, Matous and Mattson, ’83)

24.) Pen*s Dimension 10c Middle of the three ‘alcove’ climbs, middle difficulty and many consider it very tricky, especially near the top where it gets wider than hands. (usually rap slings up top) (FA: Garson and Hollis, ’74)

25.) H*ng Like A Horse 11a The third, rightmost, of the ‘Alcove’ climbs. Silvia Luebben shown in top photo working thru the crux of this sustained pumpfest. Good hands to the bulge/crux, and then it goes up to 5″ wide (a couple extra wide pieces recommended). The bolted rap is off to the right side and slightly down from the top of the climb (not far from where Silvia’s right hand is in the photo). (FA: Matous and Isaacs, ’74) 🙂 PHOTO at top of page courtesy of Craig Luebben.

26.) I’d Rather Be In Philadelphia 12b You might want to be anyplace else if you can’t cut it. A bold, difficult hand and finger crack leads up an otherwise blank, overhanging wall. Anchors at top, about 80′ off the deck. (FA: Bein, ’84)

27.) Coffee Grinder 9 A beautiful line leading from the bottom to the top of the formation. 2 pitches. Belays on gear. Downclimb the ‘back / east face ‘inside’ of the formation, as for R Southeast. (FA: Hurley and Sublett, ’71)

28.) Ain’t Crack 8 Starts near the beginning of Coffee Grinder, angling up and right, traversing right into the Guide Book Dilemma crack. Belay in a convenient corner, depression. Downclimb the ‘backside’ or take on #11. (FA: Fowler and Goody, ’74)

29.) Ain’t Crack Headwall (aka: Achilles’ Last Stand) 9+ Go LEFT from the Ain’t Crack belay and ascend the intimidating face. DON’T fall on this 3 rattly bolt cheese grater or you will definitely ‘cut the cheese’. Balancy and all on crystals. A tad dicey at the grade before entering the right leaning crack near the top. Belay on gear. A balsy climb at the grade on old bolts. (FA: Wilke and Gall, ’79)

30.) Guide Book Dilemma 9 About 10 yards right of #10 is a prominent, blocky and overhanging roof. Head up the dihedral just left of the roof, traverse left to another dihedral for about 20′ and left again up along a flake. Belay at the end of the flake. (FFA: Cairnes, early 70’s)

31.) Whirligig Exit 8+ Take the flake on the right-hand side to the top. (FFA: Kopischka andFriedrichs, early ’80’s)

For More Information see other Reynold's posts.