POLAND

POL  R B

Photo 1...      Photo 2...

 

10.)  Little Old Crack  5  Want an easy jam crack lead?  Here's the one for you.  Find it around the corner left of #11.  Then do Kim.  

11.)  Southwest Friction  4  A bolted (2), run out slab to the top - but don't get hysterical, just trust your feet.

12.)  Kim  6  See description on Pol SE.  Total classic at its grade, except too short.

13.)  Piece of Dirt  11a  The opening moves are up a daring, bolted lie back crack, then on to steep, exposed face.  This exciting route was originally bolted with 3 placements, but soon two more were put in after 'comments' began amassing.  It is still very challenging and retains a high pucker factor.   Photo (courtesy of Gina Digiallonardo) is of yours truly about 3 moves up after the transition to 'face'.

             

14.)  Fantasia  9  See description on Pol SE.

15.)  Cool Jet  11c  See description on Pol SE.

16.)  Petit Crapon   8+  See Photo 2 above.  A demented and foreshortened version of its namesake, yet still interesting at the grade.  The contortional start on hand jams hangs up lots of people, as does the small finger crack gaining the top of the Rat Brain proper at the blue arrow.  There might be a move or two of 5.9 there.  Belay on gear.

17.)  French Tickler  11c  See Photo 2 above.  New addition.  Highly varied jamming and brawny.  Climb "Petit" for 10 -12', stem across left and climb the crack formed between the 'inner' flake and the main formation to bolted anchors at top. 

18.)  Sugar Crack  7  About 50' around right from Fantasia, just N of the Petit Crapon is Sugar Crack, a 45' jamcrack in back of a wide scoop.  P1:  Climb the crack (see photo;  Photo by Stacy Bender ;-).  P2: Climb the face to the top. 

         

19.)  Tanfasia  9  Sustained and more difficult than it looks.  Ends with inch worm moves up an exposed shelf.

20.)  Boulder Hopper 9  Found on the north side of the formation, there are (at least) two ways to approach the climb.  Its about 30' west from the top of Sugar Crack.  You can come at it from an alcove on the North side by scrabbling up a wide crack and continuing directly south until you can't go any further.  This crack goes fists and hands to near the top.  Protect before the end, because you might not want to stop.  "To hop or not to hop" (into the crack) at the bottom is your choice.  Most stem.   

DESCENT:  The usual descent is from bolted anchors atop the formation, essentially between the tops of Kim and Southwest Friction.  A single 50 will get you down to the South.

Poland

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