PLUMBLINE

The Plum Line crags are nestled in their own aesthetic setting, one of several miniature valleys that form ‘The Citadel Area’. It actually consists of four loosely connected formations. The largest is the two-tiered ‘Plumb Line’ Crag itself as shown below. There is also a closely associated Southeast Wall containing two routes. A fourth, smaller and blocky outcrop called the ‘Guardian’ is found to the southwest across the little valley

DJ Don’t Judge a Book 5.7 Eaton, ’94.
JB June Bride 12a Suzuki, ’85.
G points towards the Guardian.

HERE’S A WIDE SHOT SHOWING THE PLUMB LINE FORMATIONS

DETAILS OF THE ‘GUARDIAN’

Another shot of The Plum Line Area showing a little more detail. Approaching from the SW, the ‘upper tier’ of ‘Plumb Line’ Crag is seen (5 routes), as well as the Southeast Wall (2 routes) and the blocky outcrop called the ‘Guardian’ (two routes), shown in detail immediately below.

  • Decaf Tea 5.8 …. (Kelman and Nelson, ’02)
  • High Tea for Hookers 5.9 …. (Kelman and Nelson, ’03)

Here is the MAIN CRAG.

LOWER TIER:

  1. Amaranth 5.7 Westmost crack starting about 10′ from ground level. Hand to wide at the top.
  2. Barley 5.6 Next crack right of #1, a squirmfest to an OW ending.
  3. Corn 5.5 A few feet right of #2, find an interesting crack line in a left facing dihedral corner. You can also climb the crack that parallels Corn on its right side, sometimes called Kashi (7+).
  4. Big Pink 11b A rather daunting, strenuous off with about 15′ left of #5. Take big pro, bro and have at it. (Jay Anderson, ’86)
  5. Plumb Line 9 A beautiful splitter hand crack reminiscent of ‘Indian Creek’. The area’s namesake climb and one well worth the effort to get here.

DESCENT: Rap bolts are found on the large, rather flat boulder sitting above #’s 4 and 5.

UPPER TIER:

  1. (6.) Damage Done 11b Test your skills with this one. Climb a hands to OW crack found behind a detached block (about 11a), then ride the uptilted arete past two bolts to a rap station at the top. (FFA: Jackson and Scarpelli, ’94)
  2. (7.) The Spins 11b Harrowing off width on the left side of a sizable block between two larger vertical slabs. Careful, pro is scarce, even with big pieces. (FFA: Scarpelli and Jackson, ’93)
  3. (8.) Silver Dollar 10c Climb a right leaning crack up towards the detached ‘silver dollar’ shaped flake and continue upwards and overhanging crack around it. Tough it out, man. Rap bolts at top of #13. (FFA: Jackson, Scarpelli and Whitehead, ’92)
  4. (9.) Lady’s Night 10c This is the OW to the immediate right of ‘Silver Dollar’. Rap bolts at top. (FFA: Jackson, Scarpelli and whitehead, ’92)
  5. (10.) Closing Time 10c At the right end of the top tier, find a left-leaning slot to OW with difficult moves about half way up. Rap off #9. (FFA: Jackson, Scarpelli and Whitehead, ’92)
  • JB points towards the ‘June Bride’ area.
  • G points towards the ‘Guardian’.

For More Information see other Citadel Posts