O L D E A S Y
O L D E A S Y
"M R C"
*also see Golden Grief !
Amongst more than 800 challenging and sometimes bloodthirsty crack and sport climbs lie some real classic lines. The best of all may be MRC, the "Mountaineer's Rock Climb", on the west face of Old Easy. When viewed from the west, from the Lower Parking Lot (Box Canyon Lot) or from near Fall Wall, you'll see several striking lines that overlap and intersect on the "MRC Complex". Don't worry, take a look at the above topo and your confusion should be solved - to an extent at least. Several of the older 'variants' have been left off for now and only the most commonly climbed lines are included.
Here are the most commonly climbed lines at MRC. There are other
variants that will be described in detail later.
1.) Arretez Maintenant (aka OLD EASY ARETE) 9+ A bolted arete, considered a possible first pitch (or not) to MRC.
2.) MRC Direct 9+ The straight up, 2 pitch line of MRC, Vedauwoo crack climbing at its finest. Bolted intermediate belay. See Photo 1, #1, indicating the termination of the first pitch at the belay (B), the roof (R in top photo, also see Photo 2) of the second pitch and the continuing crackline above. Belay on gear at top of second pitch. Classic. The second photo is Matt Schoeck making a very critical clip at the roof. :-) PHOTO 1, base image, by Stacy Bender.
Photo 1...
Photo 2 ...
3.) Straight Edge 9+ OW, possible finish to MRC (or not). Controversy on the grade.
4.) Seam Variation 10a fingers variant, usually dirty. See #1 in Photo 1 under MRC Direct above.
5.) The traverse into MRC Left (see #3 in Photo 1 under MRC Direct above).
6.) MRC Left 7+ The superb left variant, great climb at its grade. Begins with a 35' traverse left from the belay (see #3 in Photo 1 under MRC Direct above) into the crack. Its mostly hands leading to offwidth at the top. One pitch. Photo 1 is the start of the vertical leg, slightly overhanging. Photo 2 is a shot of what many consider to be the crux bulge, an overhanging transition from cracks into the upper offwidth section. The belay is on gear about 30' above the climber (in shot 2). :-) PHOTO 2 by Stacy Bender. Photo 3 is Vince Ruland at the crux bulge heard yelling something to the effect of "5.7 my a--", a sentiment that has echoed across the Box Canyon many times in the past!
Photo 1 ...
Photo 2 ...
photo 3 ...
DESCENTS: 1.) The usual descent is via a 2 rope rap from bolted anchors on a rounded top marked by the XX's on the topo. There is a short pitch of 5.4 to get up to these anchors from the top of MRC Direct, and there's an easy boulder problem to get up from the top of MRC Left. One can get to the intermediate belay on MRC Direct from the top belay with one rope, but its not recommended. 2.) You can use the Golden Grief Raps. 3.) Also, there's the optional a walk off / downclimb south of the gulley (Colostemmy) to the right past BUTTOX and FINGER FANTASY (seen on the next page).
to more OLD EASY TOPOS
( showing Golden Grief and Pelvis )