'OLD EASY' AREA TOPOS
L O O K !!
A collection of quality climbs exist on the south face of Old Easy,
but are seldom climbed, the GOLDEN GRIEF AREA
and the PELVIC AREA (P, see below).
the GOLDEN GRIEF AREA
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PHOTO NUMBER 1
1.) Dire Pitch 8 Seen in photo number 1, this is one of two long chimneys on the west side of the area. Check out the other shot, PHOTO NUMBER 2, for close-up details of these two body graters.
2.) Golden Grief 8 A mixed climb with 2 bolts near the start and trad from then on. Its a long, wandering and varied line. Two pitches.
3.) Third Time Around 9 Even more wandering than #2....
4.) Grief Roof 10c Hard start to #2.
5.) Buttox 10b An overhung handjammer
6.) Finger Fantasy 12a A finger ripper similar to a genre of short lines found here.... like Jimi Handtrix and Mick Jagged over on Hassler's Hatbox.... Sort of obscure, but real testpieces of digital strength.
P = The Pelvic Area (see below)
PHOTO NUMBER 2: This is a close-up of the two infamous chimney routes in the Golden Grief Area.... Please note the numbering on it is different than in other shots of the area.
1.) Dire Pitch 8
2.) No Name Chimney 7
3.) Approximate start of MRC, shown here for orientation purposes.
4.) Ralph Called 10a Described elsewhere, but seen well from this perspective.
B.) Suggested belays
DESCENTS: There is a set of rap stations atop the
Golden Grief Area ... not mentioned in any guidebook.
Just check out the topo (photo #1) above for their location. A 50 will get you from
the top to the intermediate station. Two 60's will get you to the bottom.
You can use the MRC rap station from the top belay of NO NAME Chimney.
Of course you can always walk down / downclimb if you are so inclined.
the PELVIC AREA
East of and above the Golden Triangle, and directly below the well-known diminutive route called BUTTOX , lies a small, seldom climbed area with 2 notable 5.7 handcracks, a challenging 5.10 and a really killer 5.11 roof !! Its ...
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IMAGE NO. 1 is a scan of one of the original photographs (with notations) we took when first working the area in '93. "BUTTOCKS (10b)" is seen at the top as a large, rounded boulder sitting atop the formation (Old Easy). "FINGER FANTASY (12a)" is a difficult boulder problem directly right (east). There are 4 lines converging downwards from Buttox. These are relatively short, but each is distinctive at the grade.
IMAGE NO. 2 is a photo-topo of this cool little area showing the same routes.
1.) Ascending Colon 7 Deserves more attention than it gets, its a first class hand crack. (s harper + r kelman, '93)
2.) Descending Colon 7 While perhaps not quite as aesthetic and a little wider, the line is just as challenging at the grade. Despite what it says, go up not down.... (s harper + r kelman, '93)
3.) Spastic Colitis 10a Its a route for contortionists, at least at the crux. Still, one worthy of climbing if you're not too spastic. (s harper + r kelman, '93)
4.) Colonic Detonation 11a Named for what happened when the first ascensionist peeled off, spring loaded, right above the roof. This is one strenuous roof, requiring placing good pro (at least 2 medium cams) while hanging free on jams followed by a high heel hook and pull to upper jams. Big time pucker factor !!. *Have an alert belayer or loose it !! (s harper + r kelman, '93)
DESCENTS: The easiest descent is to place a gear rap after ascending one route if you are doing the others. Then clear it when finished. You can use the Golden Grief Raps. 2 60's will get you to a nice flat area from which there is an easy walk down. There is also an intermediate anchor half way down the face in case you only have one rope. You can also downclimb the primary gully to the right called "Colostemmy" - hardly a 'climb', more like a grovel.
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