Land of the Earth-born Spirit

Note on Gear

While some climbers want loads of beta on climbs, many don’t. You won’t find detailed beta here. Each climber climbs a route differently. Perhaps a special piece of gear is needed for a crux move, or a tough sequence is best protected by using a combination of certain pieces – these things should be found in the text. But other than that, here’s basically what you need to know.

Despite what you may have either heard or think, easily over 50% of all routes at Vedauwoo can be climbed with a STANDARD VEDAUWOO RACK consisting of one each of all wires ranging in size from a small RP (#1) to a large “stopper” about the size of a #12 Rock – PLUS one each of all cams ranging in size from the smallest micro cam to a # 3.5 Camalot. If you want to throw in extra specialty pieces or additional hexes, or tricams, etc., that’s your prerogative.

There are many rather short routes (40 – 70’) at Vedauwoo. Therefore, 25% of the climbs can be accomplished with a SHORT RACK consisting of taking a standard rack and eliminating every other piece. Use of the ‘Short Rack’ will be cited in the text.

The remainder of the climbs requires alertness, self-reliance, foresight and common rock sense. You ARE climbing at Vedauwoo, Land of the Earthborn Spirit …. AND BIG, WIDE CRACKS ARE FOUND HERE IN ABUNDANCE. If you are climbing an offwidth, supplement the large cams with additional ones and possibly carry larger pieces like the #4 Camalot or Big Bros. If it’s a long handcrack, supplement the rack with midsize cams in the 2 to 3” range. Assess each climb for what it is. Read what the description says, look at the climb from the ground, think about it and act accordingly. That’s part of the learning process as well as part of the adventure – and it is not the purpose of this website to trample on, or dilute your unique experiences. If you want beta specificity in the extreme, go to the Vedauwoo section of rockclimbing.com or elsewhere and hopefully you’ll find the answer you are looking for. Good luck – and have a great time at “The Voo”. There’s no other place like it.

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