THE NORTHEAST POINT

Dawn at the light tower, Northeast Point

The Northeast Point is the most concentrated area of great sea cliff climbs on the island as seen on the route topo above. These are all sea cliff routes and you have to rap down to the bottom anchors to climb them!! *NOTE: Routes are numbered from R to L facing the sea, primarily because the exact Northeast Point and the climb associated with it is the easiest to locate. Routes progress westward along the wall from there. Take the Lighthouse Footpath north from the light towers at the east terminus of Major Donald Drive. Just when the trail begins to bear left or westward, about 75 paces along the trail, traverse right over the nasty rock to the bluff edge and you will be very near the Northeast Point. NOTE: Climbs 1 thru 13 are quite close to each other as one progresses westward along the Bluff edge. Look for the yellow route ‘name tags’ for orientation as shown in photo below near route #10, ‘The Devil Wears Flippers’.

1.) What’s the Point, 5.9+, 2/13/2. George Bracksieck’s creation, he wanted ‘The Point’! Long and recreational. Ti, T (Bracksieck)

2.) SOS, 12a, 2/10/2. Sustained, steep and reachy, but big holds (sometimes). Just a few feet W of #1. NOT REBOLTED! (Luebben)

3.) Pillage and Plunder, 11b, 2/13/2. Steep, thin and reachy. Shot to right shows Luebben firing up his route. It is also replete with spicules, hence great friction (if you can take it) all the way. Be prepared. Just a few feet W of #2, anchors over the edge. NOT REBOLTED! (Luebben)

4.) Freedom, 12c, 2/17/2. Three

5.) 12 cruxes, go for it. Ti, T (Elison and Grenard) 5.) Throwin’ the Tortuga, 11b, 2/11/2. Throws and pulling huecos to an airy arete. Ti, T (Elison)

6.) A Porcupine named Fluffy, 11c, 2/10/2. (Grenard)

7.) Habeus Porpoise, 12a/b, 2/3/2. Direct start to #6. Traverses westward, then up on smooth rock. (Elison)

8.) Renegade, 11d, 2/13/2. Shares top anchors and last bolt with #6. T

9.) M Divin’, 10d, 2/11/1. Not rebolted! (Luebben)

10.) The Devil Wears Flippers, 11a, 2/16/2. Sharp, sustained and hidden holds. Ti (Luebben)

11.) Spermy the Whale, 11c/d, 2/14/1. Ti (Elison)

12.) Baby Beluga, 12b, 2/13/0. Very sustained, don’t look for rests, just go for it using small holds. Not rebolted!

13.) Hermy the Crab, not rebolted! 12a/b, 2/10/1.

14.) Shiver Me Timbers, 10b, 2/12/2. (Harper) *Note: First route completed on the North Wall. Located in an obvious large east facing dihedral corner. Ti, T Located approx. 30 yards west of #13 in a large R facing dihedral corner near a lone palm tree. Photo at left is of a struggling climber following on the upper, very smooth half of the climb. Highly recommended.

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