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NORTH CORNER a n d MIDDLE CORNER

N and M Corner

1. 2. 3.

Both major components of the FIVE CORNERS AREA, at least one half of NORTH and MIDDLE CORNERS rarely sees the sun (this is where most of the climbing is located). Their yellowish, lichenous NE faces are clearly identified from John's Tower across the diminutive valley to the north. The routes found here are each legendary in their own right, are of high quality and challenging to say the least.

NORTH CORNER

1.) Easter Island 12a Great mixed face climb on the east face of N. Corner. 5 bolts on the lower half, small pro on the upper half. It starts over a bulge that used to have a bolt, wanders left then right past a thin barn door move and follows a shallow crack system to top anchors above a blocky, red dike. (probably 1 move at the grade, mostly 5.11) Neil Humphrey, c'94.

The Easter Island Face of North Corner.....

2, 3, and 4; SEE THE CLOSE - UP, shot # 3 above...

2.) Jihad 11d Head up a dicey, thin and nearly unprotected face loosely following a lichenous orange streak left of #4 ... if you dare. If you don't, scramble up the dihedral towards the base of Maywood (#4) and traverse left whenever you want to. Now grunt and groan as you pump out following the prominent right leaning crack to the top. Take extra big pieces. Plenty strenuous!! Scarpelli and Rangitsch, c'89.

3.) Disappearing Act 11c A crack that goes from hands to fingers and finally disappears with lots of dicey, thin face to the top. "Worked on" for years - unfortunately, someone rounded off edges, eliminated some and other strangeness went on here. Still, a challenging, mixed climb (trad plus bolts) with 2 bolts to protect the top third. Rap anchors at top. (aka Valhalla?)

4.) SS Maywood 10b A stellar, steep wide crack in a dihedral corner that never sees the sun. Perhaps a wide crack testpiece at the grade. Use hands, fists, stacking, barring and any other moves you can make. Use critical edges on the right face to facilitate your upward progress or tank like the Titanic. Obviously takes several large pieces up to 2 #4 Camalots - depending on your ability. Rap anchors at top. (Matous and Heywood, c'80)

Jeb Steward taking a voyage on SS Maywood (belayed by Diane Noton).

Twin, superb right-leaning cracklines dissect the upper half of the wide, northeast face of North Corner. Both begin on a prominent shelf and are notorious for relieving hands and fingers of skin. TAPE UP!! They can be approached two ways. 1.) Climb the easier face (with a bolt) and a crack below them to get to the shelf or 2.) scramble up to the ledge from the right and traverse out to them.

5.) Calling On You Moscow 11b Left crackline. A pure trad classic fingereater with some hands. Double up your small to mid sized cams for this one. (Piana and Cowan, '84)

6.) What The French Girl Said 11b Right crackline. More hands, a fine, solid trad line. Double up your mid sized cams. (Piana and Cowan, '84)

Descent: Rap anchors (bolted Fixe Rings) at the top of the routes.

MIDDLE CORNER ....

7.) Wango 10c find detail elsewhere.

8.) Girls Gone Wild 10a