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Orientation photoTopo ... Near the Prow ...

*New Route ... NEMO'S NEMESIS ... See #9 below!

1.) Grand Traverse 10c 2 pitches (1st = 10a) Just to the right of the Right Torpedo Tube under a huge capstone. Start up a fairly continuous handcrack splitting a blocky face. It will jog slightly right about 2/3rds of the way up to the capstone. Do the 'Grand Traverse' under the capstone (at the arrow) and come to a set of belay/rap anchors. Rap off here or do the second pitch. The second pitch ascends the fist-sized crack over a bulge (10c crux). Descend the MPSpace raps (ne top, see Prow topos) or walk off to the west.

2.) Max Factor 11c Finger stickin' good. Stylish finger jamming with good feet and good pro. Best and memorable at its grade. Anchors at top (rap off) or continue up 2nd pitch of #1. Short rack of small cams and all wires. Photo is Steve Bechtel 'doing it right' up near the bulge.

3.) Bug Squad 11d Barndoor'sville. (2 fixed pins) Go ahead, see what happens after the first pin (think about putting gear in below it!). Use small wires and cams above the second pin. Its thin, devious and very technical. Anchors at top.

Another topo, routes 1 - 8 ...

4.) Baalbek 9 Challenging for the 9 leader and better than it looks. It starts out a wide vertical gutter with teeth (naturally), but gradually narrows to the big chockstone. Above this, there are surprisingly balancy moves that take skill to protect with small cams or wires. Can traverse to the Bug Squad anchors to rap off.

5.) Maxilash 11a So you think you are an 11 leader? Height dependent, ability dependent, 'threshold for pain' dependent. Pure sandbagaroni. And IF you make it past the bulge, you've got a long jamfest to go, bro. Double up on medium cams (up to 3.5").

6.) Octagon (unrated) Just do it - and let everyone know. You will become part of the legend, its been tried by the best. Here are two shots of Tom Painter setting up (No. 1) and going for (No. 2) the critical micro-jam about 5' up the primary crack. Just couldn't stick it long enough to get 'feet'. Apparently no one can.

No. 1... No. 2...

7.) Vault 10a This foreshortened finger picker should go on for 100', but doesn't. Strange exits, either up or straight 'south', yes south through the rock to H & H Grunt.

8.) Captain Nemo 10d 2 pitches: The 1st is a neat 5.8 handcrack and the 2nd is a traverse with 'imaginary' feet. Shares top anchors with #9.

9.) Nemo's Nemesis 11d/12a *New route. The old captain had a grudge, salty old dude. A hardnosed, stemmy start followed by very sustained crystal pinching - ouch! Actually refined and dance like moves, yet arduous at the grade. Bolted (12 bolts) and fixed anchors up top. A 60 M will get you down (not 10,000 leagues).

THE HORTICULTURE ANNEX (Can use Nemo's Rap to get down - 60 M rope)

10.) Automotive Supply House 11b A jammin mama with at least two cruxes, probably 3. Tape up. Lots of grade controversy here. Belay on gear.

11.) In The Groove 10b Easier version of #10 - finish on it.

12.) Burning Spear 11b Yes, thin.

13.) Horticulture 6 Usually 2 pitches with a belay after the first right slanting crack (before going up and left - at arrow on topo), or use good rope engineering if you do it in one pitch. The photo is of Nate Jorgenson from UWyo on the follow of this cool climb on a cool, cloudy day.

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14.) Cannonball 10a Usually 2 pitches. You'll crunch up like a cannonball for the crux with no feet. You might even get shot right out. If you don't know what a 'chicken wing' is now, you will after this (not something to eat!). See the first phototopo for location, about 80 feet right (west) of the Horticulture Annex. Sometimes slings are at top of P2 (rap), or long walkoff to the right (W).

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