JURASSIC PARK T O P O S
J. P A R K W E S T
*NOTE: There are two rap stations available for descent and you can downclimb to the right of route # 20.
1.) Prologue 5 Start up a chimney behind the Juvenile Raptor Boulder (JR) and take a handcrack that goes up and left.
2.) Recombination Mutation 6 Same start as #1 but continues straight up. Superb hands at the grade.
JR) The Juvenile Raptor Boulder. There is a sneaky start to both routes no. 1 and 2 on the front side (south side) of the JR Boulder. It goes at about 5.8. Give it a try!!
3.) First Iteration 10b A sporty, slightly run out route with three bolts just right of JR. Use small cams in the horizontals if you feel more secure.
4.) Sore-O-Pod 8 Tape up or you'll know how the route got its name. Great 'hands' at the grade.
5.) Second Iteration 10d Sporty route that diagonals left with a cruxy move at the last bolt. The crux for short people might be the dyno start! Belay with gear on the shelf above the last bolt or continue to the top on # 4.
6.) CC Left 9 Follows # 7 but jogs left after about 40 feet ascending large flakes and a super roof to belay anchors.
7.) Crichton's Crack 11a You'll use lots of technique on this climb starting in a left facing groove that's bottomed out in places. Continue up into a pod and a short, vertical crack. Next you're confronted with a 15 foot bottomed out crack leading to a crack that goes from hands to fists to an offwidth finish. Good luck.
8.) Flake-O-Saurus 10c Tough jamming up an overhanging, right facing crack that comes to an end about 30 feet off the deck. Cruxy moves across unprotected face get you to the shelf above. Scramble off to the right or continue on either 6 or 7.
9.) Get Up That Tree 8 Inventive route that goes mostly 6 except for the ominous, large chockstone low on the route. Is that old tree there for a reason?
10.) Rowdy Joe Bad 11c Three bolts indicate a line up a face directly left of #11. Newest addition climbs exfoliation flakes, some of which are already gone. Ends at the previously placed 2 bolt rap station.
11.) Lawyer On The Toilet 8 A wide crack just right of # 9 leads to a thinner crack above a large corbel. Some slightly sketchy popcorn granite, but well worth the price of admission.
J. P A R K E A S T
* Note: Two rap stations are available for descent from all routes, and you can downclimb to the right of route # 20 (blue arrow).
10.) Rowdy Joe Bad 11c see above...
11.) Lawyer On The Toilet 8 see above...
12.) Slot-A-Saurus 9+ Probably the most popular climb in JP, surely the longest. Start in or out of the slot, turn the corner and find a crack. There are two shelves, the second more tricky than the first to surmount. Watch the bottomed out crack leading to the bouldery finish - you might want to sneak in a #1 Lowe ball here.
13.) Lichen Lung 11b A sustained and testy contribution by Doug Cairnes. Belay on the big ledge, its (mostly) over by then anyway.
14.) Mud In Your Eye 10d A Bob Scarpelli classic, therefore probably harder than its graded. Puzzle out the start and you'll be rewarded with great jamming.
15.) Velociraptor's Revenge 11b A1 Use the bolt for the start if necessary and go for superb jamming above. Dicey finish.
16.) Tricera-tops 1 10c A right facing dihedral (8) leads to a ledge (don't ask what that black stuff is on the ledge) which leads to the crux roof.
17.) Tricera-tops 2 10c A steep, left leaning crack (9) leads to a ledge (more petrified black stuff) which leads to the crux roof.
18.) Tricera-tops 3 10c A right leaning hand to finger crack (10b) leads to a ledge (The ledge is called "Coprolith Ledge", a hint for you science types.) which leads to the crux roof.
19.) Digiripper Raptoris 11a A thin, finger crack with teeth leads to a ledge, jog right to the chimney exit of # 20.
20.) Epilog 7 Go up a left leaning groove to a chimney.
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