HOLDOUT N. W. FACE
HOLDOUT N W
1.) Oslund's Delight 8 Furthest left climb, the original route done by Pete Oslund and Jim Olsen (1966) was the crack beginning on a ledge in a left facing dihedral. Today, many use the crack below and left of the dihedral as a start.
2.) Rainbow In The Dark 11a Starts with a finger crack about 30 feet right of the lower Oslund's crack. Then follow the left - arching roof. Finish off in Oslund's. Good luck.
3.) Reading Raymond Chandler 12a A left leaning thin crackline with one piton. Requires lots of technical expertise and commitment - a very demanding line.
4.) Static Cling 11d Another knifeblade thin seam starting from the top of a large pointed flake. It starts leaning right, but then goes left. Suck it up, get amped and go for it.
5.) Currey's Diagonal 10b Sheer bliss. Considered by most as one of the best climbs at Vedauwoo, this is the elegant right slanting line up the middle of the face. The pinkish tint to the rock below the crack indicates the amount of traffic on this climb, it's feldspar showing through the grey granite overlay - worn off by decades of scuffing. Its basically liebacking a thin edge, clipping two old pitons and placing your own pro as well. The crack opens up near the top where larger cams can be used from there to the top anchors. Just do it. And PLEASE leave the little tree alone - it has managed to maintain itself in this route ever since the first ascent (drawings by Halfpenny, '66). That kind of tenacity deserves ultimate respect.
6.) The harder, unprotected alternate start (12a) to Eleven Cent Moon.
7.) Eleven Cent Moon 11d This is the distinctive line formed by the left facing dihedral dropping straight down from Currey's top anchors. A favorite of many Voo afficionados, it will test your finger strength as it gets steeper and steeper past a piton and a bolt on the face. There are two alternate starts: One, a left arching crack shown at #7, and a more difficult start about 20 feet right that goes up a shallow vertical pocket, traversing right and up on dime-thin edges. Ends at Currey's top achors.
8.) North Shore 13b Whether Maui or Vedauwoo, this is one wild ride. Not often done, but quite refined at the grade, this bolted line will challenge the hardest. Starts at the top anchors of Silver Surfer, and be prepared - its all crystals. Top anchors.
9.) Pipeline 12a The Bonzai Pipeline isn't this steep and sustained, is it? Try surfing UP this one. Begins at the top anchors of Silver Surfer, goes out right and up on crystals. Top Anchors.
10.) Silver Surfer 9 Starts in a wide crack formed by two large, stacked flakes and the main wall. Top anchors.
11.) Beefeater 10b A USDA choice cut of prime beef, this is a definite classic. It's sought after as the "hands" testpiece at its grade. Usually done in 2 pitches. P1: start at 'ground level' on a face just right of a dihedral with a huge roof. Climb up to the roof, traverse it to the right and set up your belay at the base of the crack/second pitch on a convenient shelf. P2: Climb the hand crack (that gets thinner up high - see the shot) straight into heaven. Top anchors.
DESCENTS: Many routes have top anchors in one form or another. If not indicated on the topo, belay using gear on these routes, but use the top anchors on other routes for descent.