Land of the Earth-born Spirit

HEARTBREAK HOTEL

”Since my baby left me, I’ve found a place to dwell…”

1.) Atherolichenous Plaque (*11a start, then 9+) Begin in a challenging offwidth slot (crux) that used to be overgrown with lichen using a #4 Bro or # 2 Dude. Then move upwards into an entertaining handcrack and roof. Turn the cool roof using a medium large cam (about a #3 Camalot) and continue to the top. Belay on gear. The shot above shows the horrific slot start. Note the ‘Big Dude’ up in there! (Harper and Thomas, ’92) *NOTE: mislabeled in the ’04 Kelman guide, also in Orenczak, 2011.

2.) The Devil in Disguise 11a Ascends the crack system 15 feet right of #1. The start is thin and balsy on popcorn granite. Then ascend a respectable handcrack to an obvious roof with a hellish looking maw above. Set some pro, turn sideways and become a self-destructive contortionist for another 30 feet using good and not so good edges. Caution, there are teeth in here that bite!! Belay above on gear. (Harper and Thomas, ’93). *NOTE: overlooked in Kelman, ’04 and Orenczak, ’11.

3.) Don’t Be Cruel (aka ‘affair of the heart’) 9 Choice hands to the roof where it ends. Don’t worry, its NOT cruel! Metolius rap anchors at base of roof. The shot is of a climber nearing the anchors. (Brink, Harper, Kelman, ’93)

4.) Cardiac Arrest (big roof 15 feet to the right of #3, aka ‘Spandex’?) 11a Use the start of #2 or start directly below – to move up into the large left facing dihedral forming a 25 foot jamcrack. You may want to belay in the top corner (before the roof) on gear – big pro. The roof is very thin hands and feet, protecting with really small wires or Lowe balls. Turn the roof, continue up the slot to the top and belay on gear. (FFA questionable, probably Scarpelli, c ’91)

DESCENT: Either 1.) walk off to the right (west) and down the “Hypertension” side, or 2.) use the rap rings near the eastern top of the formation (see the phototopo below).

LOOK!! Two more routes are found around the corner/ left/east of route # 1 shown above.

NORTH FACING! Never sees the sun. Great for escaping mid-summer heat on 4 quality routes.

Directly ‘in back’ (north) of HYPERTENSION.

Unfortunately, this unique area is not represented well in later guidebooks,

including Kelman,’04 and Orenczak, ’03, ’11.

1.) Hypotension 7 The crack in the dihedral corner that first slants left and then right. Belay on gear. (Harper and Kelman, ’93)

2.) Beta Blocker 8 Take the ramp seen right of ‘Hypotension’ that slants up to a blind corner. Turn the corner and continue up to the top. Belay on gear. (Kelman and Harper, ’93)

Note: The roof on Atherolichenous Plaque = “A”

There is a 2 Fixe ring rap station on the top as indicated.

Rumors have it there is an old dude with dark hair and sideburns, long duck tails and wearing shades seen frequently bivying around here.

He’s usually strummin’ a box and singin’ tunes. Just pass him by, he’s mellow and harmless.

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