Land of the Earth-born Spirit
Errata for Heel and Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo by Skip Harper and Rob Kelman, Heel and Toe Publishers. ISBN: 0-9640645-0-2.
- Errare humanum est! What else can we say? Thanks to all contributors.
Things will be changed in the Second Edition.
- Pages falling out after heavy use – the pages have started falling out in some copies. The best fix is to have a spiral binding put on at a copy shop for approximately $2.
Page 2. There is only one KOA Campground. It is at I-80 and Curtis, and its correct telephone number is 307-721-6553. Apologies to John Brym for having listed his telephone number.
Page 14. Add the two following items to the Bibliography . 7a. Gilbert, Harold. Vedauwoo, 241 pages, Connections Press, Sheridan WY (actual date of printing unknown but after 1987). 23a. Scarpelli, Bob. The Cracksmen, 48 pages, self-published, Laramie WY 1987. (see comments about this book on p. xii.)
Page 21. 1. Five Sleazy Creases 8+. There’s a bolt after the crease. Descend by walking right (northeast) along the narrow ledge, and then downclimbing at its end.
Page 37 and 38. Replace with the following descriptions. 49. Whistling Jupiter 12b Follow a line of bolts up the middle of the southwest face to a rappel station. 50. Veda-Voodoo 12a Start at the right (west) end of the north face, and follow a line of 6 bolts up the north facing arete.There are some old aid bolts to the left of this climb.
Page 51. 79. Sorority Girl 10b If this climbs exists, it is not located where it is described in the text.
Page 52. Wild Thing is 65 yards left of Japan Club. Who the Devil is Charlie Creese? is 25 yards left of Wild Thing and on a lower tier.
Page 54. 85. Prologue 4 and 86. Recombination Mutation 5
Page 71. Except for a short beginning, the crack in Strong Love leans left.
Page 89. Make the following changes in Figure 6.2 (thanks to Robert Cordery-Cotter). The pointers for Routes 27, 30, and 31 should all be moved one crack left. For example, the pointer for Route 30 points to Lower Progressive and not Handjacker.
Page 108. Replace with the following descriptions. 83. Devil’s Food 9 This is the short off width that forms, high up, the left juncture of the Tongue Depressor. One approach consists in climbing the next route followed by some intimidating face climbing to get to the base of the off width. A more rational approach consists in scrambling towards Old Eyeful but remaining about 50 feet below that climb. About 10 yards left (northeast) of Old Eyeful, one can scramble on top of the Tongue Depressor. From there, rappel to the start of the climb. 84. I’m Spartacus 11b Directly under Devil’s Food and starting on the ground is a flare with a thin crack in the back of it. Climb the flare until the route ends on the slabby ledge below Devil’s Food.
Page 127. Change the name Cyber-Way to My Blue Heaven (Thanks to Andy Brown).
Page 135. In Figs. 9.5 and 9.6 the second belay for Labyrinth should be about 15 feet higher placing it at the skyline.
Page 140 The belay for Guide Book Dilemma is lower and to the right of where shown in the diagram. It is set near the end of the final crack of the climb. The belay for Ain’t Crack is also set here.
Page 144. The climb described as Church Not Made By Hands is actually Church in the Mirror 10c. Church Not Made by Hands starts in the left crack and traverses to the right crack and finishes on the face. Page 142. Granite Stairway has 4 bolts, but the hanger on the first one has been removed and the stud damaged. An alternate descent from Top Flight and Church Not… consists in downclimbing to the right of Granite Stairway.
Pages 145 and 146. Slash is 10b and Gash is 10a. Bad Girls Do starts as an overhanging finger crack. Gloria’s Fantasy has probably never been climbed. It looks hard. In the description of Gloria, replace “An off width” by “A fingertip” (your humble writers have made appointments for eye examinations). The roof at the top of H should be passed on the left. Parade Rest is 10a.
Page 149. In the description of Paper Training, replace “right facing” by “left facing.” Spelunk Spiral begins 85 yards left of Wrist Ranger.
Page 153. 61. Two of a Kind 8-.
Page 155. 1. Raised on Robbery This route ends at the narrow, horizontal shelf. Rappel from the belay stance. Gear may have to be left for the rappel.
Page 158. 5. Blair Blaster 10a.
Page 162. In Figure 10.6, the caption should read: “Blair III and Moby Dick, Southeast Face.”
Page 163. Replace with the following (thanks to Bob Cunningham): 15. Bragging About Jesus 10a A line of 10 bolts leads up the arete. This is a great climb, but it’s tricky getting to the bolts without having your rope jam. One option is to carry the rope with you and work your way through the chimney in the back until you are able to step out to the first bolt (low fifth class). At that point, throw one end of the rope to your belayer (assuming he’s still there; otherwise throw both ends down). A small camming device can be placed about two-thirds the way up. There are rappel chains at the top (two ropes!). The southeast face of Moby Dick is creased by 2 cracks–the first about a third of the way from the left end, while the second is a third of the way from the right end. There is a faint, right leaning crack between them. 16. Damit 10b This is the left crack. At the top, it’s wide, below that a left facing dihedral and below that a right facing dihedral. An upwardly left sloping crack leads to the lower dihedral. A 5-foot high triangular block sits in front of the left leaning crack. Do some easy climbing that starts in front of the block and follows the left leaning crack to the lower right facing dihedral. Climb 50 feet of sustained finger crack, finally obtaining the wider exit. There are rappel chains at the end. Take extra small gear. The original, aid route from the 1960’s, traversed right from this point to finish on the middle crack. A Horse Will Have To Do is a better name for the free version of this climb. 17. The Putter 10a This is the crack on the right. Start as in Damit. At the first ledge, traverse right for about 30 feet and belay beneath an undercut, hand crack at the start of the climb. (The original route traversed in from the northwest side). Climb the hand/fist/arm bar crack to the top. Descend from an improvised rappel station. Two ropes to get to the ground. One rope will reach to a ledge from which downclimbing will be required. Extra #3 and #4 Camalots are recommended. Save a big piece for the belay. Also, Outer Notch is 5.6.
Page 169. Replace the name Mystery Blocks (?) by Country Swing. (Thanks to Andy Brown).
Page 172. 32. Rubber Biscuit 11b; 34. Storm Watch 10c; 35. Flip, Flop and Die 11b. This route is on a southwest facing wall. 40. Big House 8+ and 41. Becker 7
Page 182. Superb Arete has 5 bolts and Who Knows has 2 bolts. Drees Special is 5.10c.
Page 186. 13. First Gear 9-.
Page 190. Three paragraphs from the bottom appears “…Jet Stream, which is located on the northwest face.” Replace “northwest” by “southwest”.
Page 192. Figure 12.4 shows the south face. Page 193. Third paragraph. Replace “west face” by “southeast face”.
Page 199. Insert Paper Training and Who Knows into the 5.9 list. Page 208. Replace “Giggle 6” by “Giggle 8.
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