CHINATOWN T O P O
1.) Yasha Hai 13a This climb is NOT in the Master Blaster Area as reported elsewhere. Found here in Chinatown, a distinctly different formation lying adjacent to the Turtle Rock Trail, it's a fingerblaster of a crack that splits the prominent overhanging roof seen above. It was done in ('about', P. Piana) 1979 by a Japanese climber (not Suzuki) who built models of the roof after he had first seen it and subsequently trained for it. He came back and did it, complete with documenting photos, etc. It has not been repeated except on aid since that time. One can still find old pins and anchors at a belay stance underlying the roof. Climb #2 until you can move right under the roof. Find old belay set up and/or belay on your own gear (much better). Then go for it - if you think you can !!
2.) Silk Road 10c Left leaning ramp finishing up a blocky, vertical chimney left of #1. (sh+as, '93)
3.) Confucious Sez 5.7 (mostly 5.6) Climbs like a gym climb, eats pro, goes all the way to the top of the formation where there is a convenient stone belay seat. Do it in one or two pitches. (sh+as, '94)
4.) Mandalay Me 9+ Crux is overhanging handjams. (sh+dl, '94)
5.) Grab Your Ghengis 11b Yes, its hard - offwidth that is. Dicey start in an open book. This one will try to spit you out .... continuously. (sh+ej, '96)
6.) Shanghai'd in Chinatown 10b Left facing dihedral corner, traverse (crux) somewhat before the roof or you'll get shanghai'd for sure. Belay at either the rap anchors or about 20' above them on gear. (sh+dl, '93)
DESCENT: Rap off #6 anchors, or scramble down the backside.
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