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BLAIR THREE S O U T H SIDE
B 3 S
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1.) Ball's Out 11a Starts in a steep, thin declivity about 20 yards SE (left facing the rock) of #2 next to a huge, rounded boulder under which there is a bivy cave. There is scant pro for the first, dicey 25 feet except a placement for a thin wire or especially a No. 1 Lowe Ball. Set it well because if the 'ball comes out', you might loose 'them'. Continue up a groove to a blank headwall above which there is a gem of a 5.9 handcrack to the top. Either traverse left and back up a sloping ledge to avoid the headwall (5.8) or take on the unprotected headwall (10cr) if you have the balls. Set a good piece in the handcrack and float to the top on plutonic jamming. Belay on gear. (sh+jb,'93)
2.) Every Move You Make 12b Begins about 25 yards left of #3 on a seemingly blank face. A very thin, bouldery start to attain the first jams 15 feet above - so thin in fact that you will pass it up the first time. Some choose a thin traverse in from the right (11c). This line ascends what is essentially a left facing dihedral formed by several bulging layers with horizontal breaks between each. Take a full rack and supplement the larger cams. It is long and sustained. (Scott Blunk, '88) Belay on gear. Descent: Same as 3,4,5.
3.) Sketch Palsy 10d A fine bolted line continuous at the grade with a cruxy move just above the obvious horizontal break. Put in some pro here if you don't trust your feet. Don't sketch out, it's all there. (Shawn Bradley et al., c'94)
4.) Arete Already 10ar Opening moves are up a closing crack to near the obvious horizontal break. Then its crystal pinching towards the arete on your right with a medium cam placement in a crack half way there. Follow the arete to the top. *NOTE: Done prior to #5 with no bolts on runout!! Now use upper bolts of #5 if you have to. (Jim Brink and Skip Harper,'93)
5.) Bragging About Jesus 10a Great bolted line up the arete, however mischievious approach. Go behind the miniature 'vulture' formation and climb up to the arete carrying your rope. Uncoil and toss one end down to your belayer. Take a couple medium cams. (Steve Bechtel and Jesse Stover, '93)
BELAYS AND DESCENTS: there's a good set of Fixe Rings atop this formation. Routes 3,4,5 converge here. *NOTE: TWO ROPE RAP to the ground!!
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6.) Unicorn Exterminator 10b A circuitous circus of jamming and contortions. Novel. Rap as in 3,4,5. (Orenzac and Roberts, '01)
7.) Rollicker's Lullaby 9 Climbed for years (decades), apparently just not documented.
8.) Damit 5.8 On Moby Dick SE Face. The remnants of an older aid climb that originally cut the entire SE Face of Moby Dick (Ref: Halfpenny, '71 text page 30, Photo #30), now consisting of the ending cracks only leading from the 'SW Platform' to the top (see Fig. 4).
9.) A Horse Will Have To Do 10b On Moby Dick SE Face. Apparently replaced/renamed the bottom half of Damit when freed. You'll need a full rack on this one as it goes from wide to thin to wide again. Rap chains at top on the 'SW Platform'. (Cowan and Matson, '84)
10.) The Putter 10b On Moby Dick SE Face. An old one.... Grovel your way to the top using this wide gash in Moby Dick's side. Take extra big pro and tape up. 2 rope rap to ground. (FA Southerland and Cross,'68. FFA D. Rearick, '74)
11.) Penetration 9 On Moby Dick East Face ('prow'). Finally someone has knocked these off ..... On the 'east' face of B3 'below' and left of Moby Dick, find 2 parallel offwidths like book pages... Climb the left of these using the right one for stemming assistance. (Jenkins and Orenzac,'03)
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