BLAIR THREE - NORTH SIDE
The north side of Blair Three can be subdivided into three parts, left end, middle section, and right end (facing the rock).
The LEFT END includes the NW Face of Moby Dick...
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1.) Hard to Believe 10d
2.) Sneak Around 5.6
3.) Inner Notch 5.4
4.) Middle Notch 5.4
5.) Outer Notch 5.6
The MIDDLE SECTION includes the infamous 'Girls With Long Knives'...
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1.) Son of a Wanted Man 13 b/c A 'mixed' line (bolted and trad) following the vertical dike about 30 feet right of the junction of B3 and Moby Dick - with few holds only a wanted man would dare to use - like a desperate pinch about 2/3rds of the way up. Descent is from top anchors or downclimb the break between B3 and Moby Dick. (s milton, '02)
2.) Pretty Girls With Long Knives 12b (concensus) 2 pitches. P1: A long, grippy finger crack located at the midpoint of the formation. An interesting controversy between Piana and Scarpelli accompanies the history of this beautiful, classic line involving placement of a bolt at the crux. Belay first pitch at ledge below pitch 2. P2: Finish above on the hand to fist crack (10b) and belay on gear. Descent as for #1. (P1 = p piana, '84, P2 = h suzuki + p piana, '84)
3.) Five Finger Discount 12a Begins about 60' left of Intimidation (#1 below). Another mixed route that starts in a handcrack that gradually disappears to nearly blank, bolted face. Steep, thin and dicey. Top anchors. (j varco, '99)
The RIGHT END has several lines centered around the rather classic line 'Intimidation'...
These routes are relatively short, belay is on gear, and descent is by scrambling down to the west.
1.) Intimidation 9+ A popular, right diagonal line that continues over several bulges - mini cruxes to the top. Belay on gear, scramble down to west.
2.) Ledge of the World 9+ Basically an alternate start to #1. Head up the big crack to the Ledge, creep along the Ledge of the World to join #1. (r kelman + m duncan, '02)
3.) Jogging to Vedauwoo 10a Follow a wide slot to hands, jog left on the ledge and continue up the offwidth ending. (r kelman + g murray, '95)
4.) Dream of Fat Antelope 8+ Opens with a left facing dihedral to the 'ledge', jog slightly right to an offwidth finish. (r kelman + g murray, '95)
5.) Random Crystals 8 Starts 20' right of #4 in a recessed wide crack to the ledge and finish with a left leaning handcrack. (m brown, ,90)
6.) Go Left Old Man 7 Begins in a left leaning gouge about 30' right of #5 to the 'ledge', and continue up a left facing dihedral. A variation (5.6) begins at the 'ledge' and heads up the right leaning handcrack.
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