B2s

B L A I R TWO

SOUTH SIDE

1. 2. 3.

1.) Falcon's Flair 10a Straight in and straight up past three horizontal grooves. Watch out for the bird nest. Belay on gear. See Fig. 2 (sh+as, '93).

2.) Deadman's Glove 11c Ascend a thin, right facing dihedral into thinner territory where 2 bolts are found. Follow the somewhat easier, protectable crack in the dihedral corner to the top. Ostensibly named for a well-used, moldy old glove found at the base of the climb. Belay on gear. See Fig. 3 (S. Blunk + S. Millard, c'92). Mixed climb, bring gear.

3.) Turnaround: Called variously 'Enterprising Curiosity' ('04) and 'Bloody Scab' (03), this climb which begins with a 40' gaping, leaning offwidth was climbed much earlier as evidenced by old rap slings and 2 pins found when it was climbed in '93 (Harper and Diamond). At that time we found a continuous line of 5.8, offwidth leading to a large chockstone. Moving either under or over the chockstone and further 'inside' the cleft between the formations, we found 25' of great handjams and OW (5.8) on the lefthand (facing N) wall leading to the top. Also, a thin finger crack paralleling the hand crack (on its left) was done separately and rated 10d. We called it Turnaround part one (all 5.8) and two (10d). Here's a shot of Greg Diamond on the finger crack (Turnaround Part Two) back then. Whether we established the FFA or not is still yet to be determined. Belay on gear or from #4 anchors. See Fig. 3 *NOTE: Some thoughtless idiot CHOPPED the top rap bolts shown in Photo 3 above. Your descent options are therefore limited but still possible using ring anchors above Turnaround Part Two, to the Chockstone with rap sling to the ground (2 raps). Also reported are rap anchors above #4 with an intermediate rap shown in Fig 3.

4.) Hobbit Logic 11b Start in #3 to reach a significant horizontal crack/ledge, traverse left to the vertical crack (use optional belay) and follow it to the top. A thin area midway is protected with a bolt. Rap anchors at top. See Fig. 3 (Z. Orenzac + M. Roberts, '03).

5.) There are rumors that the steep, nearly featureless, wide face right (east) of #4 has been freed - it has definitely been attempted. There are also reports of top rope problems ('the Pissing Post', etc.) here as well.

DESCENTS There are at least three sets of rap anchors in the area of Deadman's Glove. One is above Hobbit Logic and one is near the top of the steep face to the right of #3. These raps require 2 ropes from the top. If the intermediate anchors on HL (#4) are used, one rope will do. One can downclimb the West face of the formation (rather inconvenient) as well as the cleft between Blair 2 and The Vulture (N. side) which goes at about 5.5.

   Lower Blair

    Outlying Areas

    Central Vedauwoo