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B L A I R O N E - SOUTH SIDE
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Here's the SOUTH FACE (actually the Southeast exposure) of BLAIR ONE. It's sunny and pleasant most of the day and usually out of the wind. It's the site of some old, easy climbs to the summit blocks, as well as some newer, more challenging lines. There is a sizeable bulge on the west end that comprises a nearly separate formation called the Blair 1 South 'Annex'. It is seen in more detail BELOW.
1.) Creature Features (Seen in detail in topo 2 above). Actually three climbs in one. TAPE UP ! A 9+ Begin behind a large boulder/flake and soon go vertical in a hand and fist crack for 30', followed by a series of discontinuous, less than vertical cracks of varying sizes to the anchors. B 10a At the first major horizontal encountered in A, jog left and up a diagonal crack to the next crack system (about 25'), protect up this hand crack to its end, jog left again about 15' to find a neat crack line that goes over 3 successive bulges. Anchors at top. C 11a Continue left past the bulges to find a slightly overhanging, left leaning - thin crack leading to an overhanging, bulging roof split by a handcrack with teeth (crux). Belay on gear. (s harper + g diamond, '92)
2.) The old "East Face Direct" 5.6 FA; Rich Baldwin, mid-60's. A gutter and chimney system leading to the top, usually done in two pitches.
3.) Its In The Bag 5.7 Another direct line to the top.
4.) The old "Scrotum" 5.7 FA; Ken Johnson and Jim Larson, 1966. A wide chimney system to the top.
5.) You Left Your Nut 10a Cool route with lots of variation. Starts below a big roof, ascends the left side through a series of interesting jams and other surprising circumstances. Belay 120' above at the shelf on gear. (s harper + g diamond, '94)
6.) The Cryptorchid 10c Ascends to the right of the same roof as in #5. A thinner, straight forward version of #5. Careful or you might end up becoming one (look it up!). (s harper + d Lossner, '94)
DESCENTS: There is a set of anchors/rap station at the top of Route # 1A and #1B. One 50 or 60M rope will get you down to a walkoff back to the base of the climbs. Also, there is a downclimb on the North Side of the formation as indicated by the arrow on Topo 1 above.
B 1 south A N N E X
1.) When You're Strange 11b Lurch and thrash your way up this handcrack that widens and gets harder. top anchors. (B. Scarpelli and Paul Piana, '84)
2.) Bat Drop Crack 10a Awkward right side jamming, especially when you have to use the petrified guano - or use face moves to avoid it if you can.
Descent: top anchors (#1) or Walk off to the backside of the formation, downclimb the gulley.
LC Little Creatures 11b A short, stout crack in a dihedral corner high on BLAIR ONE. Approach up the gulley (orange arrow, right side) between the ANNEX and BLAIR ONE.
1c The leftmost route of CREATURE FEATURES (11a) on BLAIR ONE, also seen in above topos.
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