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BLAIR ONE - NORTH SIDE
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Here's the north (northwest) face of Blair One as seen from the SW flank of Blair 3 looking in a southerly direction (#1 above). Some of Blair Two is also visible. Its multiple crack systems can be appreciated and it also becomes apparent why this formation was attractive to the hardmen of the late 50's and 60's.
1.) Public Enemy 11c Seen close up in shot #3 above, the leftmost of two parallel, right leaning cracks.... It's thin dude, and there's a bolt about 20' up to help you out. Rap chains on top ledge. (w griffith + m jenkins, '01)
2.) Raised on Robbery 10b An older Scarpelli line shown in Shot #3 above that will challenge the 5.10 leader. Rap on chains. (b scarpelli, '84)
3.) Ice Box 5.3 or so What's in a name? Climb it after noon. An easy, natural line to the top first done in 1955 by Walt Sticker, et al. Descent via downclimb on East end, or Creature Feature rap anchors (SE Face).
4.) In Between 5.6 After starting in the same crack as #5, take the obvious crackline to the top. An older line established by Jaquot and Berg in '78. Descent: Check out image # 1 for downclimb locations..... also rap from # 12 anchors if you can get there.
5.) Three Roofs 5.7 An older route established by Jim Halfpenny ('68).
6.) Community Norms 10d About 40' right of #5, climb discontinuous cracks to the top. (m brown, '94)
7.) Social Mores 10b Somebody wasn't social? Find a diminutive left facing dihedral just right of #6 that leads to a roof, go right and find a thin crack to the top. (m brown, '94)
8.) Spike It 5.8 A double-double crack system with a spike of rock between the lower one - really? Start in a double crack system and belay or not on the big ledge. Move right to another double crack system and take the leftmost crack, discovering one or two hard moves along the way. (m brown, '94)
9.) The Gampher Chimney 5.7 An older line first climbed by Jaquot, Hallady, Davis and Glenda Gampher clear back in 1963.
10.) Questionable 5.6 An alternate second pitch to Petite Arbre (#11). (m wierdness, '93)
11.) Petit Arbre 5.8 (p1) Superb jamcrack named for the little tree above the big ledge.... One pitch or two. A great handcrack widens out and leads to a big ledge. (p2) Continue up the cracks past the little tree.... Don't use it for a hold or sling it for pro (it was there long before you were) or a vigilante committee will remove your petite ..... . Image #1 - opening moves. Image #2 -Diane Noton on lead, entering offwidth trough near end of 1st pitch. Image #3 - top (2nd) pitch, getting a little pro near the 'little tree'. known to be climbed before the FFA claimed by m brown in '94.... probably first by an itinerant tree trimmer in tennis shoes from Laramie.
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12.) Electric Gypsy Moth 10c A challenging little sport route with a hard, bouldery start (topo image #1). Hallucinogens not recommended - stay alert or you will become hamburger. (z orenczac, '02) Rap off the top. (Image #2: Skip Harper on lead, photo by Diane Noton.)
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13.) Feelin' Flaky 5.9 Climb the N face of the same block, inside the hallway from #12. FFA has been lost in time.
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