NAUTILUS S. C.
NAUTILUS S C
Two views of the same section of the Nautilus, the South Central Area.
1.) Flying Buttress 10b View 2 probably best angle.... A popular and widely regarded climb, especially the 2nd pitch. P1: is straight forward hands to the first belay (on gear) beneath the overhanging hand and offwidth crack at the back of a wide flaring maw. P2: Use both your back and your brain on this pitch (in fact use all your body parts to their best advantage) or your butt will definitely be flying.
2.) Stinkzig 7 Recommended. Highly varied at its grade. Done in one or two pitches - if one use educated rope engineering because it turns 90 degrees and up midroute. P1: Begin in a wide slot directly left of the start of #4. Chimney upward, avoiding the squeeze and stem across a drafty cleft before getting your first pro. Big pucker factor at this grade. find a great hand and finger crack on the left hand wall, follow it to a ledge. Step across left and go up a steep hand/fist crack in a left facing dihedral to a belay stance (optional). P2: Turn right and head up the obvious hand crack to the top and belay on gear.
3.) Zig Zag 10a Variation of #2. Follow the ledge around left to a high stepping fist crack.
4.) Handjacker 7+ Wide and could be ugly. Starts just behind a large shark's tooth shaped rock.
5.) Progressive 10a Sought after test piece. P1 (aka Lower Progressive) is 9+ solid jamming and stemming. P2 (aka Upper Progressive) is blocky start to a good jam crack.
6.) Escalator 10b Left leaning hand crack, sustained jamfest. *NOTE: Rap anchors 25' above the finish.
7.) Caesar (hard - unrated) Do it and let everyone know. You'll become part of the legend.
8.) Bat Heaven 10c A favorite haunt of furry winged friends, climb the rightmost of two vertical cracks.
9.) Step Ladder 6 Interesting chimney practice with a challenging exit.
10.) Elevator 10a Great handjams..
BEST SEEN IN VIEW 2 ABOVE:
11.) Candlestick 7 Light your candle with this primer in offwidth and chimney technique.
12.) Knee Grinder 10b Does the name suggest using additional padding on a body part? Descent via rap slings to the left.
13.) Blood Sport 11d Accept the fall potential if you lead it. Van Dame's got nothing on this one. Same descent as #12.
14.) Hemoglobin 8 Named for the reddish material found on the feldspar crystals within. Same descent as #12.
15.) Flying Right 9+ Alternate first pitch for Flying buttress. Nice.
16.) Piton Perch 6 First recorded ascent was by John Lund and party, 4-11-54. "A chockstone near the top makes this a grunt".
DESCENTS:
For routes leading to the top, there are 1.) rap anchors placed at the lip of the Parabolic Slab above Hemoglobin and 2.) rap anchors about 25' above Escalator (#6). Both are accessible from anywhere on top. If you must descend from the first pitch of Progressive, Handjacker, etc., downclimb a chimney found directly left of Route #8.
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