NautNC

"What we got here is a failure to communicate. Some men you just can't reach. So you get what we had here last week - another night in the box - which is the way he wants it. Well, he gets it - that Cool Hand Luke."

Buried in the depths of a dense forest, approximately midway along the base of the lower tier on the northeast side of the Nautilus, one finds the Cool Hand Luke Area. It can be approached from either direction, ie around the Prow (NE) end of the formation or directly from the parking lot on the southwest end. The descriptions of these approaches can be tedious. If you're coming from the SW end, just keep heading (NE) along the base of the formation past climbs that are easily identified like 'Slot', 'Mother #1', 'Cornelius', and so on. You will find a trail that drops down into a miniature valley and soon you will see a gigantic roof called the 'Tongue Depressor' looming overhead. You're almost there. CHL is about 50 yards further along, just before a large, 15' high flake is seen leaning against the main formation. Coming from the Prow (NE) end, you'll just have to bushwhack it on beyond the Horticulture Annex and past Cannonball (about 100 yards further), staying within sight of the base of the formation. Find the large flake leaning against the main wall with a large space (almost a cave) behind it and you are essentially there.

Is all the work worth it? Probably so. There are at least 5 climbs associated with the area, each of which is a 'different ride'. It is always shady here, so 'cool hands' is the name of the game, especially in the mornings. 'Cool Hand' is also a great escape from the mid-summer heat, but there can be mosquitos, so be forewarned.

BELAYS are on gear. DESCENTS via gear for the next climb - or lengthy walk down to the right. Somebody should put up a set of rap anchors here.

1.) A Failure to Communicate 10a Follows a discontinuous crackline through 3 minor ledges to a large flake, and on to a crack that leads to the top. Short rack. (G. Waterman et al., ?)

2.) Dragline's Demise 10a *NEW ROUTE. Begins up a blocky face, over minor ledges to an overhanging bulge (crux -arrow). Continue up a finger and hand lieback crack to the top. Short rack. (Harper and Diamond, '93)

3.) Cool Hand Luke 10d Piana's contribution, a direct, somewhat flaring crackline leads to a bulging crux (arrow). Short rack. (P. Piana + D. Arnold, '83)

4.) Devil's Food 9 Found where the Tongue Depressor meets the main wall on its left side. Climb the crack ending in offwidth. Short rack + 1 large cam. (P. Piana et al., '79)

5.) I'm Spartacus 11b A flaring crack with a thin seam is found squarely under the Tongue Depressor leading to a ledge under the huge roof. Short rack + extra small wires. (P. Piana et al., '83) [ You can climb #4 from here. ]