FRIDAY the 13TH

Steve Bechtel nearly taking flight on Pitch 3 of Friday 13th.

 

     *     *     *     *     THE TOPO     *     *     *     *

An incredible place to spend the day.  Challenges at all grades.

1.)  Middle Parallel Space  9  2P   A MUST DO !  The first pitch is a big crack that will accommodate hands, fists and armbars up to a big ledge about 25' above.  Go back and inside the hallway formed by the big detached pillar and find a really fine handcrack on the inside wall (*NOTE: this crack can be seen on the first photo on route #2 !!).  Jam up this to the top of the pillar, find anchors on top of the pillar and belay.  P2: continue up the worthy handcrack trending right, traverse a sloping ledge, find another crack that penetrates the next ledge and scramble up (5.6) to the bolted belay on top.  Rap off using both sets of anchors, ie rap down to the top of the large detached pillar, then to the ground.  Take at least 2 #4 Camalots for the first pitch.   (FA controversy:  McClure and Snively, '73, and others) 

2.)  Hesitation Blues  11b  2P   Killer route!!  First pitch is rather dicy, sustained liebacking with difficult placement on very coarse rock.  Pitch two is deceptively strenuous handjamming.  Traverse left into the Fri 13th belay at the top (watch rope drag).  Take at least 2 extra #3 Camalots.  The first two photos shows climbers at the crux of the first pitch.  The third shot shows the position of the belay for the second pitch and leader above.  (P1 FFA:  Cairnes and Matous, late 70's.  P2 FFA:  Holtcamp and Yoho, late 70's)

     1st pitch...       1st pitch...      2nd pitch...

3.)  Friday The 13th  3 pitches; 10a, 11a, 11d  One of the BIG TIME CLASSICS at Vedauwoo.  P1: First pitch is 65' of textbook hands following a rather sketchy, fingerjam start (protect it well).  P2: Second pitch is a superb roof on hands (see shot just above roof) and liebacking with pinpoint feet (larger pro, several pieces from 2.5 to 4").  P3: (aka: Friday Blues)  The third pitch??  Well ... a picture is worth a thousand words (see third shot !!) - good luck (its a fingers and hands roof to a vertical handcrack - tape up and get ready to ride).   (FFA:  Skinner and Piana, early '80's.  Other claimants for each pitch!!) 

     1st pitch...       2nd pitch...       3rd pitch...  

4.)  Deception  9  2P (*Can easily be done as 1 pitch)  Begins almost directly left of start of Fri 13th.  A totally cool route with diverse climbing.  P1:  Begins up a set of discontinuous cracks just left across the gap and slightly back from the start of Fri 13th and ends at a rap station on slings.   P2:  A jamcrack starting out thin and gradually widening to offwidth - it is deceptive.  Take at least one big cam, about a #4 Camalot.  Use War Zone anchors for descent or downclimb the H&H Grunt chimney.   (FFA: anybody's guess)

5.)  War Zone  11b  It begins about 20' left of Deception, thin face to an overhanging,bolted (3) finish.  A rather devilish, thin start leads up and over a bulge on small edges and jams to a marked horizontal fissure - the transition from trad to sport.  Above is an overhanging, bolted line that has a pucker factor of +5 to +7 depending upon your height and ape index.  Bolted anchors at top.  60 M will get you down.  (FFA: Bradley, '89)

6.)  H & H Grunt  6  A cave route, perhaps a spelunker's delight.  Climb up into the black void left of Fri 13th.  Find a rather smooth wall on your right with twin cracks and go up.  Enter a 'chimney known for at least 40 years as the 'Thin Man'.  It will hug you, squeeze you, you will grunt remorsefully and you will finally see the light at the end of the semi-vertical tunnel.  Belay on top .... after being 'born again'.  Descend off the Mid Par Space raps.   (FA: Hoff and Horn, '65)

7.)  Fri 13th, Part 2  11a   An interesting diversion from the standard.  Go left from the anchors at the top of the first pitch using small pro.  Turn the corner, get good jams above the airy void and cut loose.  Go up the crack to its top and belay.  Tape up!   (FFA:  take your pick from several claimants, unreal)

8.)  new, bolted start in about 5-15-96

9.)  Air Travel With Report  12c  bolted face right of Mid. Par. Space.  Overhanging, sustained, grueling and testy.  Yes, there are 2-3 epoxy reinforced holds.  There has definitely been some  'air travel' logged on this one.  Craig Reason contributed this class act (FA:  Reason, '87)

 

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